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decanter tasting 2000 vs 2002 1 juli 2015

We gathered a group of tasters in RJ’s tasting group to taste 2000 side-by-side with 2002 vintage. The result will be published in the next issue of Decanter Magazine Read about last years tasting,named ’Crème de la crème’. (mer…)

new article by rj: louise pommery – the greta garbo of champagnes (eng) 15 september 2014

The history of champagne is full of enterprising widows. Louise Pommery was already a widow at the age of 39 and she probably would have proudly smiled in her grave if she had found out that she was going to give her name to the prestige champagne that was created in her honor in 1979. Pommery, currently owned by Vranken, was founded in 1856 and is today one of the largest champagne houses with their 5.6 million bottles a year. Given that most equivalent champagne houses launched their prestige champagnes during the 50s and 60s, it is a bit surprising that they waited until 1979 before the giant in Reims stepped onto the prestige stage. The reason is said to be that the monegasque Polignac family for a long time was against this novelty, stating that the vintage wine was already perfect.

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ny artikel av RJ: ’louise pommery champagnernas greta garbo (swe) 9 september 2014

Champagnehistorien är fylld av driftiga änkor. Louise Pommery blev änka redan vid 39 års ålder och förmodligen skulle hon ha lett stolt i sin grav om hon fått veta att hon skulle komma att ge namn åt prestigechampagnen som skapades till hennes ära 1979. Pommery som idag ägs av Vranken grundades redan 1856 och är idag ett av de största champagnehusen med sina 5,6 miljoner flaskor om året. Med tanke på att de flesta likvärdiga champagnehus lanserade sina prestigechampagner under 50- och 60-talen är det lite förvånade att man väntade ända till 1979 innan giganten i Reims klev in på prestigescenen. Anledningen lär vara att den monegaskiska Polignacfamiljen länge var emot denna nymodighet då man ansåg att årgångsvinet redan var perfekt. (mer…)

The 100 best cuvée préstige champagne in the world – the photo session 4 juli 2014

PARTICIPATING PRODUCERS Salon, Krug, Jacques Selosse, Veuve Clicquot, Louis Roederer, Pol Roger, Taittinger, Charles Heidsieck, Ruinart, Perrier-Jouët, Deutz, Dom Pérignon, Claude Cazals, Charles Heidsieck, Piper-Heidsieck, R & L Legras, Bollinger, Laurent-Perrier, Henriot, Pommery, Léclapart, Pierre Peters, de Sousa, Diebolt-Vallois, Deutz, Perrier-Jouët, Guy Charlemagne, Philipponnat, Vilmart, Mumm, Agrapart, Billecart-Salmon, Gosset, Jacquesson & Fils, Joseph Perrier, Duval-Leroy. Gimmonet, Egly-Ouriet, Henri Giraud, Philippe Gonet, Lanson, Bonnaire, J-L Vergnon, Alfred Gratien, R.H. Coutier, Cattier, Paul Bara, de Venoge, Palmer, Dampierre, Michel Genet, Gonet-Medeville, Gosset-Brabant, Lasalle, Tarlant, Drappier, Veuve Fourny, Roger Brun, Henri Abelé, Leclerc-Briant, Mailly, H. Billot, Georges Vessellse, Marguet, Dehours, Paul Déthune, Lamiable, Pascal Doquet, Bourdaire-Gallois, Michel, Gonet, Legras & Haas, Michel Arnould, Chartogne-Taillet, Canard-Duchêne, José Michel, Colin, Ayala, Charles Ellner, Thienot, Ployez-Jacquemart, Michel Turgy, Mandois, Boizel, Roger Coulon, Beaumont de Crayeres, Lenoble, Jacquart, Goutorbe, Launois, Tornay, Loriot, Maillart, André Clouet, Coessens, Nicolas Feuilatte, Roland Champion, Telmont, Nominée-Renard, Gimmonet, Hebrart, Gaston Chicquet, Esterlin, Paul Bara, Bruno Paillard, Jean Milan

TOPP-TIO by RICHARD JUHLIN

  1. Salon – 2002 Cuvée ‘S’ de Salon  (95) 97
  2. Louis Roederer – 2006 Cristal (95) 96,5
  3. Dom Pérignon – 2004 Cuvée Dom Pérignon (95)96,5
  4. Taittinger – 2005 Comtes de Champagne (95)96,5
  5. Jacques Selosse – mv Substance (96)96
  6. Krug – mv Grande Cuvée (94)95,5
  7. Pol Roger – 2000 Cuvée Sir winston Churchill (94)95,5
  8. Veuve Clicquot – 2004 La Grande Dame (93,5)95
  9. Perrier-Jouët – 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs (93) 95
  10. Piper-Heidsieck – 2002 Rare (93)95

TOP-TIO by THE JURY

  1. Salon – 2002 Cuvée ‘S’ de Salon – 96,285
  2. Krug – mv Grande Cuvée – 96,071
  3. Jacques Selosse –  mv Substance – 96,000
  4. Veuve Clicquot – 2004 La Grande Dame – 95,571
  5. Louis Roederer – 2006 Cristal – 95,285
  6. Pol Roger – 2000 Cuvée Sir winston Churchill – 95,214
  7. Taittinger – 2005 Comtes de Champagne – 95,142
  8. Charles Heidsieck – 1995 Blanc de Millénaires – 95,000
  9. Ruinart – 2002 Dom Ruinart – 94,714
  10. Perrier-Jouët – 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs – 93,857

the Juhlin tasting 2014 – the 100 best cuvée préstige champagnes of the world 24 juni 2014

Champagne expert Richard Juhlin hosted the greatest tasting of the Cuvée Prestige Champagnes ever arranged – ’The Juhlin Tasting 2014’. 2012 the theme was Blanc de Blancs & 2013 it was time for the world’s 100 best rosé champagnes. 50 of the best grower champagnes and the 50 absolute best houses were tasted blindly. The jury was set up by eight highly skilled members of the Champagne Club. Amongst them our champagne writer, champagne blogger, champagne lover  & sommelier Björnstierne Antonson.

Champagne Club

THE RICHARD JUHLIN TASTING LIBRARY  is the world’s largest independent member database of tasted and rated Champagnes. Richard Juhlin is continuously cataloging all sampled Champagnes in real time, which gives you a great treasure to explore! Nowadays, the database contains more than 8700 unique tasting notes.

Richard Juhlin are continually and promptly adding tasting notes, and other relevant facts, on all tasted Champagnes. Everything is included and can be methodically and efficiently searched for specific information, or just a quiet read, enjoy and be inspired by Juhlin texts.

Each ’tasting note’ contains information about a specific Champagne. From the producer and in which village the producer is located, vintage, when it is tested, the composition of grapes, which point Richard Juhlin has given the Champagne during the test, and the wine’s maximum potential future credit for optimum storage. Of course, also included Juhlins uniquely personal description of a wine.

To get access to the tasting notes of Richard Juhlin You need to be a member in Champagne Club.

WHY BECOME A MEMBER?

The primary purpose of the champagne club is to be a serious global source of freshly updated information about the world of champagne. A membership will give you unlimited access to the unique Richard Juhlin Tasting Library, functioning as your informational hub. Here you can read about, and search among, over 8 000 different champagnes, including Mr Juhlin´s tasting notes and the grades he has awarded each wine, both for current and potential character. On the same day that he has tasted a new champagne, you, as a member, can go in and read about the wine in question. If you have doubts when purchasing, or want to know how the bottles in your own wine cellar are progressing, you can stay au jour with notes on the development of thousands of champagnes over time.

Because Mr Juhlin deals with so much more than just sparkling wines, you will also get a chance to read about other wines, restaurants and gastronomic experiences that appeal to his nose and palette. Through the club you will also find it easier to take part in some of the tours that are organized, as well as have the chance to meet kindred spirits either on the Internet or at tastings and other events that are continually arranged.

 

korkar på parad

CUVÉE PRÉSTIGE CHAMPAGNE Prestige Champagnes are usually the firms most expensive wines and should be the essence of the very best the producers can perform. Prestige Champagnes is almost always the wines that each firm considers to be their ”top of the line”, but no law in the world can prevent them from package a simple standard Champagne in a showy bottle and then shout from the rooftops that this is the house’s crown jewel.

PARTICIPATING PRODUCERS Salon, Krug, Jacques Selosse, Veuve Clicquot, Louis Roederer, Pol Roger, Taittinger, Charles Heidsieck, Ruinart, Perrier-Jouët, Deutz, Dom Pérignon, Claude Cazals, Charles Heidsieck, Piper-Heidsieck, R & L Legras, Bollinger, Laurent-Perrier, Henriot, Pommery, Léclapart, Pierre Peters, de Sousa, Diebolt-Vallois, Deutz, Perrier-Jouët, Guy Charlemagne, Philipponnat, Vilmart, Mumm, Agrapart, Billecart-Salmon, Gosset, Jacquesson & Fils, Joseph Perrier, Duval-Leroy. Gimmonet, Egly-Ouriet, Henri Giraud, Philippe Gonet, Lanson, Bonnaire, J-L Vergnon, Alfred Gratien, R.H. Coutier, Cattier, Paul Bara, de Venoge, Palmer, Dampierre, Michel Genet, Gonet-Medeville, Gosset-Brabant, Lasalle, Tarlant, Drappier, Veuve Fourny, Roger Brun, Henri Abelé, Leclerc-Briant, Mailly, H. Billot, Georges Vessellse, Marguet, Dehours, Paul Déthune, Lamiable, Pascal Doquet, Bourdaire-Gallois, Michel, Gonet, Legras & Haas, Michel Arnould, Chartogne-Taillet, Canard-Duchêne, José Michel, Colin, Ayala, Charles Ellner, Thienot, Ployez-Jacquemart, Michel Turgy, Mandois, Boizel, Roger Coulon, Beaumont de Crayeres, Lenoble, Jacquart, Goutorbe, Launois, Tornay, Loriot, Maillart, André Clouet, Coessens, Nicolas Feuilatte, Roland Champion, Telmont, Nominée-Renard, Gimmonet, Hebrart, Gaston Chicquet, Esterlin, Paul Bara, Bruno Paillard, Jean Milan

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TOPP-TIO by RICHARD JUHLIN

  1. Salon – 2002 Cuvée ‘S’ de Salon  (95) 97
  2. Louis Roederer – 2006 Cristal (95) 96,5
  3. Dom Pérignon – 2004 Cuvée Dom Pérignon (95)96,5
  4. Taittinger – 2005 Comtes de Champagne (95)96,5
  5. Jacques Selosse – mv Substance (96)96
  6. Krug – mv Grande Cuvée (94)95,5
  7. Pol Roger – 2000 Cuvée Sir winston Churchill (94)95,5
  8. Veuve Clicquot – 2004 La Grande Dame (93,5)95
  9. Perrier-Jouët – 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs (93) 95
  10. Piper-Heidsieck – 2002 Rare (93)95

TOP-TIO by THE JURY

  1. Salon – 2002 Cuvée ‘S’ de Salon – 96,285
  2. Krug – mv Grande Cuvée – 96,071
  3. Jacques Selosse –  mv Substance – 96,000
  4. Veuve Clicquot – 2004 La Grande Dame – 95,571
  5. Louis Roederer – 2006 Cristal – 95,285
  6. Pol Roger – 2000 Cuvée Sir winston Churchill – 95,214
  7. Taittinger – 2005 Comtes de Champagne – 95,142
  8. Charles Heidsieck – 1995 Blanc de Millénaires – 95,000
  9. Ruinart – 2002 Dom Ruinart – 94,714
  10. Perrier-Jouët – 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs – 93,857

 

Lunch with Thierry Gasco – Champagne Pommery @ Operakällaren 14 maj 2014

I was invited to a lunch at the splendid Operakällaren i Stockholm to enjoy a fabulous spring flavored lunch by chef Stefano Catenacci. Thierry Gasco had brought some great vintages from the cellars of Pommery in Reims.

Chefs de caves Therry Gasco

RJ ON POMMERY In 1856 Pommery & Greno was founded after having been known as Dubois-Gossart for the previous twenty years. The firm established a sales channel to the English as early as the nineteenth century, and were pioneers with their dry Champagne—quite without dosage.

The Marquise de Polignac was one of the first owners, and one of her direct descendants, Prince Alain de Polignac, was for a long time the man in charge of assembling the cuvées. Prince Alain is a fascinating man who, better than any other winemaker, can describe the philosophy behind his winemaking art. In 1990, Pommery was one of those firms that ended up as part of the powerful Moët-Hennessy Group, and in 2002 Vranken took over.

But the house-style remains intact, thanks to Thierry Gasco, who was trained by the prince. Pommery is among the firms that own the most land in the grand cru villages, but less well known is the fact that their locations within the area are not always the best. Besides Pommery’s own grapes, 70 percent of their supply comes from throughout Champagne, and they are vinified in modern style. Pommery is undoubtably a great name in historical terms. The house-style is made up of dry, restrained, pure champagnes with young fruit and an unmistakable steeliness that takes many years to round off.

Pommery front page

RJ ON CUVÉE LOUISE The cuvée de prestige, Louise Pommery, doesn’t fit that description, but instead is often too soft and polished to compete with the top wines of its competitors. I have been amazed time and again by the greatness of the older vintages from Pommery. Only recently I bought a large number of bottles dating from 1911 to 1979, which have lain untouched since birth in the dark recesses of Champagne. Every bottle that I’ve opened has been fantastic. The modern portfolio is also impressive and aristocratic. 

cellars of Pommery

POMMERY ’BRUT ROYAL’ | Reims | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | Swedish importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | SBnr 77041pris: 379 sek | 35PN 35PM 30CH | LG 85(85)

TASTING NOTE Some times I get amazed at the richness of Pommerys muktivintage. In other times it is hard and stingy as can get. The style is always uncompromisingly dry with a nice toasty notes. Wins for storage. Soft and comfortable with an uplifting freshness of recent times. 2009-base has a lovely likeable pineapple scented integrated charming fruitiness that will lead to greater popularity.

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2002 POMMERY ’LES CLOS POMPADOUR’ Reims | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | Swedish importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | pris: ca 3 600 sek per magnum | 20N 5PM 75CH | LG 92(94)

TASTING NOTE Only bottled in magnums. Limited edition 3000 magnums. Disgorged April’12. Dosage 9 gr/liter. The first declared vintage year is 2002. First vintage of this 25 acre fenced vineyard in Reims bore fruit 117 years ago. During my last visit we found the old notes to the first vintage in 1897. The blend is the same as then with the repect for the traditon of blending grapes. Here’s the first edition of this rarity only in magnums of course. Wonderfully good and extremely faithful the house style! How can terroir from Reims to play such a subordinate role ? Looks very much like a fine vintage Champagne, although it is always a clean grand cru. The rocky and beautiful mineral profile, together with the almost clinically precise clarity that breathes Pommery straight through. Bold Chardonnay and intense low harvest sockets and perfect winemaking has created a symphony where buttery Chardonnay with gunpowder-smoky notes from the magnum. What a brilliant debut!

Coquille Saint-Jcques de Fröya et ravioli, tomat confites et beurre blanc
Champagne poster 5.0

2002 Pommery ’Cuvée Louise’ | Reims | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | Swedish importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | SBnr 77041pris: 1 292 sek | 35PN 65CH | LG 92(95)

TASTING NOTE It’s the ninth time I try this new vintage. The winemaker Thierry Gasco really enjoy this vintage. A light year in the vineyards. Small but very high quality proportion of Chardonnay. Disgorged in sep’13. Dosage 5 gr/liter. Bright young color, incredibly beautiful mousse, creamy texture and elegant sophisticated fruit. Long potent unredeemed modern aftertaste that follows all the lofty intentions that the house has. After 30 minutes in the glass it will develop a sub-queue notes of sois-bois (undergrowth).

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2000 POIMMERY ’CUVÉE LOUISE’ Reims | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | Swedish importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | pris: ca 1 200 sek | 37PN 63CH| LG 90(92)

TASTING NOTE Only 20 000 magnum was produced this year. Disgorged feb’13. Dosage 6 gr/l. Slightly pear dominant right now. Fine strutur and good aroma that pulls against white lilies and almonds. Great energy in the finisch. This one, I will follow the next 20-30 years.

Omble Chevalier cuit au beurre noisette, variation d’Asperges at sauce à l’Ail de Gotland
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1990 POIMMERY ’CUVÉE LOUISE VINOTHÈQUE’ rehoboam  | Reims | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | Swedish importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | 40PN 60CH | LG 96(96)

TASTING NOTE A large and magnificent wine with many layers. The house-style is intact with an extra natural addition of sweet, exotic fruit that is so typical of the vintage. There is so much power here that I am convinced the wine will need to be served with food when it finally matures some time after 2015.