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1996 philipponnat ’clos des goisses’ 1 oktober 2014

1996 PHILIPPONNAT ’CLOS des GOISSES’ | 70PN 30CH  | TASTINGNOTE ‘Experience has shown on innumerable occasions that one should never discount Clos des Goisses and that this wine must always be given a hysterical amount of time to mature. 50% foudre nowadays. Very old Bollinger-barrels in the aroma of walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts and dark chocolate. Still clean and vibrantly fresh. So young and structured. At the same time soft and yet tangy. Majestic length and elasticity. Dry and a bit stingy for long, but a great Goisses for those living when it reaches its peak! Even more creamy and inviting although some bottles waft hyacinth and imbalance. Luscious later. What a brilliant wine! ’ |  RJpoints 93(95)

RJ ON PHILIPPONNAT The family has been at Mareuil since 1522 and this domain was established in 1910 by Pierre Philipponnat. In 1935 he bought the jewel in the company’s crown, the 5.5-hectare vineyard, Clos des Goisses. In 1987 Philipponnat became part of the Marie-Brizard group, and at present the domain is included in Bruno Paillard’s block.

They purchase 75 per cent of the grapes from very highly ranked vineyards (97 per cent, on average), with the remaining quarter coming from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Nowadays the firm is run with a purposeful hand by the friendly and unassuming Charles Philipponnat. He manages the excellent grapes in a praiseworthy manner. The wines share his charm and personality. All of them are intensely fruity, with a characteristically youthful tone of gooseberry in the nose. Only the first pressing is used by Philipponnat, since they have Abel Lepitre as their second label. 50% of the vintage wines are fermented in oak nowadays.

RJ ON CLOS DES GOISSES Clos des Goisses is consistently one of the world’s foremost wines. They still use a small number of oak barrels, even if certain vintages, like the ’89, are completely vinified in steel tanks. This champagne is a real slow starter that should preferably be decanted if it is going to be drunk before its twentieth birthday. The unique slope beside the canal at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is planted with 70 per cent Pinot Noir and 30 per cent Chardonnay. I recently held a complete vertical tasting of this personal wine. The champagnes were amongst the most ravishing I have tasted. Most impressive was an invaluable magnum from 1955. The 2000 is one of the milestones of the vintage. In certain years a rare – though not very exciting – still red variety is made from the batch. Even rarer, and definitely more exciting, are the 200 bottles of still Chardonnay that Philipponnat makes every year for their own use. In my opinion it is Champagne’s foremost still white wine. The four stars are all totally thanks to Clos des Goisses.

ny artikel av RJ: ’louise pommery champagnernas greta garbo (swe) 9 september 2014

Champagnehistorien är fylld av driftiga änkor. Louise Pommery blev änka redan vid 39 års ålder och förmodligen skulle hon ha lett stolt i sin grav om hon fått veta att hon skulle komma att ge namn åt prestigechampagnen som skapades till hennes ära 1979. Pommery som idag ägs av Vranken grundades redan 1856 och är idag ett av de största champagnehusen med sina 5,6 miljoner flaskor om året. Med tanke på att de flesta likvärdiga champagnehus lanserade sina prestigechampagner under 50- och 60-talen är det lite förvånade att man väntade ända till 1979 innan giganten i Reims klev in på prestigescenen. Anledningen lär vara att den monegaskiska Polignacfamiljen länge var emot denna nymodighet då man ansåg att årgångsvinet redan var perfekt. (mer…)

The 100 best cuvée préstige champagne in the world – the photo session 4 juli 2014

PARTICIPATING PRODUCERS Salon, Krug, Jacques Selosse, Veuve Clicquot, Louis Roederer, Pol Roger, Taittinger, Charles Heidsieck, Ruinart, Perrier-Jouët, Deutz, Dom Pérignon, Claude Cazals, Charles Heidsieck, Piper-Heidsieck, R & L Legras, Bollinger, Laurent-Perrier, Henriot, Pommery, Léclapart, Pierre Peters, de Sousa, Diebolt-Vallois, Deutz, Perrier-Jouët, Guy Charlemagne, Philipponnat, Vilmart, Mumm, Agrapart, Billecart-Salmon, Gosset, Jacquesson & Fils, Joseph Perrier, Duval-Leroy. Gimmonet, Egly-Ouriet, Henri Giraud, Philippe Gonet, Lanson, Bonnaire, J-L Vergnon, Alfred Gratien, R.H. Coutier, Cattier, Paul Bara, de Venoge, Palmer, Dampierre, Michel Genet, Gonet-Medeville, Gosset-Brabant, Lasalle, Tarlant, Drappier, Veuve Fourny, Roger Brun, Henri Abelé, Leclerc-Briant, Mailly, H. Billot, Georges Vessellse, Marguet, Dehours, Paul Déthune, Lamiable, Pascal Doquet, Bourdaire-Gallois, Michel, Gonet, Legras & Haas, Michel Arnould, Chartogne-Taillet, Canard-Duchêne, José Michel, Colin, Ayala, Charles Ellner, Thienot, Ployez-Jacquemart, Michel Turgy, Mandois, Boizel, Roger Coulon, Beaumont de Crayeres, Lenoble, Jacquart, Goutorbe, Launois, Tornay, Loriot, Maillart, André Clouet, Coessens, Nicolas Feuilatte, Roland Champion, Telmont, Nominée-Renard, Gimmonet, Hebrart, Gaston Chicquet, Esterlin, Paul Bara, Bruno Paillard, Jean Milan

TOPP-TIO by RICHARD JUHLIN

  1. Salon – 2002 Cuvée ‘S’ de Salon  (95) 97
  2. Louis Roederer – 2006 Cristal (95) 96,5
  3. Dom Pérignon – 2004 Cuvée Dom Pérignon (95)96,5
  4. Taittinger – 2005 Comtes de Champagne (95)96,5
  5. Jacques Selosse – mv Substance (96)96
  6. Krug – mv Grande Cuvée (94)95,5
  7. Pol Roger – 2000 Cuvée Sir winston Churchill (94)95,5
  8. Veuve Clicquot – 2004 La Grande Dame (93,5)95
  9. Perrier-Jouët – 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs (93) 95
  10. Piper-Heidsieck – 2002 Rare (93)95

TOP-TIO by THE JURY

  1. Salon – 2002 Cuvée ‘S’ de Salon – 96,285
  2. Krug – mv Grande Cuvée – 96,071
  3. Jacques Selosse –  mv Substance – 96,000
  4. Veuve Clicquot – 2004 La Grande Dame – 95,571
  5. Louis Roederer – 2006 Cristal – 95,285
  6. Pol Roger – 2000 Cuvée Sir winston Churchill – 95,214
  7. Taittinger – 2005 Comtes de Champagne – 95,142
  8. Charles Heidsieck – 1995 Blanc de Millénaires – 95,000
  9. Ruinart – 2002 Dom Ruinart – 94,714
  10. Perrier-Jouët – 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs – 93,857