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1921 Pol Roger ’Brut’ – dégorgement ’77 24 augusti 2015

Some days I love my profession more than other days! I just got offered a bottle of 1921 Pol Roger ’Brut’ (Disgorged 1977) …

(mer…)

the champagne @ the nobel dinner’14 11 december 2014

The Nobel Dinner at Stockhoms Stadshus is the biggest official dinner in the world. What will be served on the palates and in the glasses? This use to be a well kept secret.

(mer…)

1996 Cristal Vinothèque by the magnum 2 september 2014

During this weekends Nordic Magnum Dinner in Stockholm I brought an old time favorite: 1996 LOUIS ROEDERER ’CRISTAL VINOTHÈQUE’ magnum |  Reims  | Champagne | France  | Louis Roederer | 60PN 40CH | RJpoints 97(98) (mer…)

1979 Henriot ’Réserve Baron Philippe de Rothschild’ 16 augusti 2014

1979 HENRIOT ’RÉSERVE BARON PHILIPPE de ROTHSCHILD’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | Henriot | 50PN 50CH | RJpoints 95(95)

TASTING NOTE ‘The Baron’s own Champagne from 1979 is similar to the ’81 for the most part. The fruit may be a touch richer in this wine. Previously this wine appeared clumsy and low in acidity. Today we know better. The concentration is magnificent, almost like a ’76 at the same time the wine enters with a new floral and citrus-fresh Chardonnay side. Completely wonderful! The equal proportions of Pinot and Chardonnay give the wine balance. Baron Philippe is always a heavier and more full-bodied Champagne than Baccarat. Slightly less impresive, when last tasted.’

RJ ON HENRIOT Joseph Henriot is one of Champagne’s most powerful men. After having been the boss of Veuve Clicquot for many years, he returned to Henriot in 1994. Today the firm is run by his modest and extremely competent son, Stanislas Henriot. Winemaker is Laurent Fresnet. The Henriot family were established as growers in Champagne by 1640 they started their own Champagne house in 1808. The firm’s strength has always been the high-class vineyards they owned in Côte des Blancs. Today they only own twenty-five hectares of vineyards in Chouilly, Avize, and Épernay. The total proportion of Chardonnay obtained from the firm’s fine contracts with growers is more than 20 percent; it dominates the house-style with its clean, elegant, fresh citrus fruit. The Henriot family has always had strong ties with Charles Heidsieck, and still shares offices and wineries. With Clicquot, on the other hand, they share a cellar. The firm’s biggest export market is Switzerland, where Henriot’s dry, classic, slightly discreet Champagnes are a great success. The firm did well at the Millennium Tasting. Personally, I like these elegant classics more and more. Some of the most drinkable wines in the world has got the Henriot Label. Very close to 5 stars.

Champagnelunch with A. R. Lenoble in Sthlm 30 juni 2014

Anne Malassagne from A.R. Lenoble invited Champagne Club for a lunch at Brasserie Bobonne in Stockholm to taste their Champagnes.

RJ ON A:R: LENOBLE Lenoble was established in 1920 by Armand-Raphaël Graser, but the domain was destroyed during the First World War. Leon de Tassigny from Jacquesson organised some buildings in Damery for his friend A-R Lenoble. At present the firm is run by Anne Malassagne, who controls eighteen hectares at Chouilly and Bisseuil. Winemaker is Antoine MalassagneFifty percent of their grapes are purchased. The proportion of oak barrels used is increasing every year. The 1999 Gentilhomme is brilliant as usual with profound nuttiness and lovely orange-dominated fruit aromas with flowery overtones. A fine personal spiciness lying in wait under the surface. The 96 is even better and the most recent vintages are super exiting in their oaky way.

A.R. Lenoble

nv A. R Lenoble ’Brut Nature – Zero Dosage’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 309 sek| 30PN 30PM 30CH | RJpoints 68(73)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie and 0 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from the 1cru Bisseuil & the Pinot Muenier from Dammery. Grapes from Damery, Bisseuil and Chouilly vinified using 10% oak barrel and without sugar. Fairly delicate and mellower than expected. The aromas stretch from apples to pineapple and roses.

A.R. Lenoble C.I.

nv A. R Lenoble ’Cuvée Intense’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 329 sek | 30PN 30PM 30CH | RJpoints 75(79)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie and 5 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from the 1cru Bisseuil & the Pinot Muenier from Dammery. Pinot Noir from Bisseuil, Meunier from Damery and Chardonnay from Chouilly vinified using 10% oak barrel with seven grammes of sugar and three years in contact with the yeast. Rich in flavour and interestingly spicy with a long, pure Granny Smith finish.

A.R. Lenoble BdB

nv A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 349 sek100CH | RJpoints 67(73)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2009. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 5 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly. Grapes from Chouilly alone. An exciting and remarkable nose of candlewax and medicine, and an interesting personal flavour of flint stone.

A.R. Lenoble BdB08

2008 A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 409 sek100CH | RJpoints 80(83)

TASTING NOTE Pre-release. 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly. Again, I am a little bit disappointed with this fairly rich wine. Not nearly as village-typical despite all of the serious appearance. It lacks creaminess and minerality. The richness is there as a small consolation.

A.R. Lenoble BdB06

2006 A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 409 sek100CH | RJpoints 77(83)

TASTING NOTE Pre-release. 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly. Ambitious, well-made wine with intensity and a origin form good parcels. However, I am not nearly as impressed as I am when it comes to the house’s equivalent Blanc de Noirs. The Wine is a bit too rustic and characterized by straw and malt tones.

A.R. Lenoble Terroirs Rosé

nv A. R Lenoble ’Rosé Terroirs’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 359 sek 10PM 90CH | RJpoints 59(61)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Grand cru Chouilly (90%) & the Pinot Meunier comes from 1er cru Bisseuil (10%). Rich and full-blooded with a far more Pinot-influenced style than the grape content suggests. The aftertaste is spicy. Sorry to say we are seldom impressed by rosé champagnes from chardonnay-focused growers & houses.

A.R. Lenoble

2009 A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs ’| Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 409 sek100PN | RJpoints 86(89)

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The PInot Noir comes from 1er cru Bisseuil. Wow! Cool! Here we go again. Not quite as large as the sensational 2006, but the same flavor spectrum and modern dense fruit.

 

2006 A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs ’| Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 479 sek | 100PN | RJpoints 90(91)

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The PInot Noir comes from 1er cru Bisseuil. Wow! What a sensation. Solid oak-influenced bio-oriented grower style with features of Egly and Selosse. One of the biggest surprises in recently. Massive and impressive throughout.

A.R.Lenoble

2006 A. R Lenoble ’Gentilhomme’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 599 sek | 100CH | RJpoints 84(90)

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Grand cru Chouilly. Production only 3 – 4 000 bottle per year. Cool and extremely personal wine that radiates less polished than before, but with more sting and raw impressions. IN good years: a stylish Blanc de Blancs from Côte des Blancs. 

A.R. Lenoble

mv A. R Lenoble ’Les Aventures’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 699 sek | 100PN | RJpoints 92(94)

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Grand cru Chouilly. Production only 2 000 bottle per year. The lieux-dits ’Les Aventures’ covers 0,5 hectares. A new cuvée de prestige of the best available that has been given a dose of 30% oak barrel. The grapes used to from the three fine years (like 1990, 1995 and 1996) This version is a blend of equal parts of the vintages ’02 & ’06. . I have heard such a lot of good things about this wine that I was slightly disappointed. I have the feeling that it is fantastically modern and oaky in tune with the times. And what will happen with storage? Worth trying at all events.

 

A.R. Lenoble Zero Dosage

nv A. R Lenoble ’Riche Demi-Sec’| Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 309 sek | 30PN 30PM 30CH | RJpoints 60(60)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie and 32 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from the 1cru Bisseuil & the Pinot Muenier from Dammery.

Louis Roederer -’a voyage into the making of brut prémier’ 23 juni 2014

The still wines of Champagnes, vins clairs, very seldom leaves the cellars of Reims. and equally seldom outsiders from the Champagne industry have the opportunity to taste them. Under the guidens of Chef de caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon I had the opportunity to go through rhe parts that ends up in the final blend of Brut Premier. (mer…)

1964 Henriot ’Vinothèque’ 11 juni 2014

2014 is the year for a lot of celebrations – a lot of friends are turning 50 this year. We started to celebrate the Swedish National Day the 6th of June with a grand bottle:

1964 HENRIOT ’VINOTHÈQUE’ | Reims | Champagne | France | price €850 | 60PN 40CH | TASTING NOTE  Absolutely stunning Champagne! One of the most magnificent wine experiences I have been through and probably the most delicious wine I had drunk in the last five years. The balance is outstanding and the nectar equally nougat saturated and the nut roasted fruit essence is lovely. BJ 98(98) 

RJ ON 1964  ★★★★★  This wonderful vintage is often compared with 1966. The 1964s have today, with few excep- tions, a scent of mint chocolate, bergamot oil, freshly baked bread, and a rich toffee as well as a concentrated taste at the peak of their life cycle. If you want to try old champagne, but are not willing to take a risk, the 1964 might be the safest bet. The flower-filled prestige champagne Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque made its debut with this vintage that is still the house’s best. Dom Pérignon is another choice this year next to Louis Roederer Cristal, and Heidsieck & Co Monopole Diamant Bleu.

RJ ON HENRIOT Joseph Henriot is one of Champagne’s most powerful men. After having been the boss of Veuve Clicquot for many years, he returned to Henriot in 1994. Today the firm is run by his modest and extremely competent son, Stanislas Henriot. Winemaker is Laurent Fresnet. The Henriot family were established as growers in Champagne by 1640 they started their own Champagne house in 1808. The firm’s strength has always been the high-class vineyards they owned in Côte des Blancs. Today they only own twenty-five hectares of vineyards in Chouilly, Avize, and Épernay. The total proportion of Chardonnay obtained from the firm’s fine contracts with growers is more than 20 percent; it dominates the house-style with its clean, elegant, fresh citrus fruit. The Henriot family has always had strong ties with Charles Heidsieck, and still shares offices and wineries. With Clicquot, on the other hand, they share a cellar. The firm’s biggest export market is Switzerland, where Henriot’s dry, classic, slightly discreet Champagnes are a great success. The firm did well at the Millennium Tasting. Personally, I like these elegant classics more and more. Some of the most drinkable wines in the world has got the Henriot Label. Very close to 5 stars.

champagne spring trip – day 2 – Pol Roger 1 maj 2014

Bus left and took us to Winston Churchill´s favorite Champagne Pol Roger. we had a visit and lunch at Champagne Pol Roger with president Laurent D´Harcourt and some amazing rarities.

10 Downing Street

RJ ON POL ROGER The foremost ambassador for Champagne, Christian Pol-Roger, has unfortunately retired from the scene. Nowadays the firm is run by Christian de Billy’s son Hubert. He was very doubtful for a long time as to whether or not he should dedicate his life to the family firm, but feels completely at peace now that the choice has finally been made. Winston Churchill’s favourite domain was established in 1849 by Pol Roger, who was succeeded by his sons, Maurice and Georges.

At the turn of the century the Roger family changed its name to Pol-Roger. Maurice was the mayor of Épernay during the week-long occupation of the town by the Germans in September 1914. Despite German threats to shoot him and burn down the town, he remained defiant and was later hailed almost as a saint in the town. He was voted honorary mayor for life. England has always been the main export market for Pol Roger, and when the wartime prime minister Sir Winston Churchill died the label of the Champagne was black-edged in memory. After a suitable period of mourning, the 1975 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill was launched, in magnums only. The wine is made in a style they believe Sir Winston would have appreciated. His favorite vintages were 1928, 1934, and 1947.

winston_churchill

TODAY Nowadays the firm owns eighty-five hectares of vineyards, most of them close to Épernay: Mardeuil, Chouilly, Pierry, Moussy, Chavot, Cuis, Cramant, and Grauves. They meet 45 per cent of the firm’s needs, and the rest is taken from Pinot villages to give the wine backbone. Pol Roger’s vinification is quite normal, which leads me to the conclusion that the secret lies in the quality of the grapes and, above all, in the skill in assembling the cuvées. The wines are medium-bodied, with a lovely fruit balance and perfect dosage. The mousse is exemplary, with smaller bubbles than usual because of a cellar temperature half a degreee below the average.

Pol Roger had more wines and more older wines in the Millennium Tasting than almost any other Champagne domain, which is completely natural because Pol Roger’s champagnes are extremely high class and are so long-lived. They are normally most famous for their Pinot-dominated cuvées today made by Dominique Petit, but at Villa Pauli they were rewarded for the best blanc de blancs ever made, with their powerful 1959. My only 100-pointer is a blanc de blancs from Pol Roger. I love the entire range of the firm’s products, from the regular non-vintage all the way to the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, and I guarantee you that every sound bottle you drink will impart a life-enhancing experience of pure joy. Just at present the best bargain is the 2000 Blanc de Chardonnay if you can wait at least two more years after release. The wines from the 2002 vintage are destined for the cellar.

Pol Roger140415_027-2

APÉRITIF IN THE GARDEN  | 2004 POL ROGER ’BLANC de BLANCS’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | 100CH | RJ 87(92)

TASTING NOTE It’s a bit early to predict whether this will be a bestseller or just a very nice Champagne. Anyway, we again have to do with a classic Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs with strong mineral character and lemon overtones. The roundness verify that we have to wait for a while.

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1988 POL ROGER ’BLANC de CHARDONNAY’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | 100CH | RJ 94(96)

TASTING NOTE This label is very consistent through the years. Already from the start, the ’88 was charming, and distinguished with a faint note of citrus and a soft aftertaste. Delightfully complex bouquet, with a nutty tone and classic purity developed in the beginning of the twenty-first century and by 2003 the wine had broken all barriers. Now it’s sensationally voluptuous and rich, with a Comtes-like exotic mint-toffee sweetness and layers of butter toffee and fat Chardonnay.

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1999 POL ROGER ’CUVÉE SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL VINOTHÈQUE’ by magnum | Epernay | Champagne | France | secret blend | RJ 91(93)

TASTING NOTE Young and immature directly after degorgement. A bit closed at that time, but nothing that makes me think of anything but a very good future. As I expected early, harmony appered when I tasted it again at the beginning of 2012. Very nice on jeroboam and magnum.

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1993 POL ROGER ’MILLÉSIME VINOTHÈQUE’ by magnum | Epernay | Champagne | France | 60PN 40CH | RJ 92(92)

TASTING NOTE A wine that was surprisingly similar to the fruity and charming nonvintage Champagne when it was released on the market. In a very short time the character has gained depth—we are already dealing with a classic but as-yet light and rapidly maturing Pol Roger. To be drunk in great, refreshing gulps. Because the house-style is intact, it will surely mature handsomely. No great depth, but still a good piece of work.

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1996 POL ROGER ’ROSÉ VINOTHÈQUE’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | 65PN 35CH | RJ 92(96)

TASTING NOTE This issue of this wine follows the trend of recent years’ rosé wines, which is somewhat lighter, more floral and simultaneously creamier than previous vintages. Gorgeously, romantically summery just at present.

Pol Roger

2006 POL ROGER ’ROSÉ’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | 65PN 35CH | RJ 84(87)

TASTING NOTE Clearly better than the alarming weakness in 2004. Pure fine fruit, but still somewhat neutral in style and now the rosé from PR is always the only vintage wine from Pol Roger, I do not acquire my own winecellar.

15 champagne lovers | 6 champagnes | 5 vintages | 75 glasses | 4 dishes

 

champagne spring trip – day 1 – Louis Roederer 28 april 2014

Late afternoon we checked-in at the magnificent hotel in Reims L’Assiette Champenoise (Now 3 stars in Guide Michelin). Round 6p.m. the bus left for unbeatable Champagne Louis Roederer. first we had  a visit at the cellars at 74, rue de Savoye followed by a splendid world unique Cristal vinothèque dinner served at the Golden room in Louis Roederer private mansion with the winemaker, the charming  Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon. (mer…)