4.30 Monday morning and we arrived for lunch in Aÿ at long time favorite Champagne Bollinger. This was the start of The VIP trip oct’15!
On May 5th it was time for the Swedish premiere of the new vintages of Bollinger La Grande Année 2005, and La Grande Année Rosé 2005. For this reason, we we’re invited to a tasting with a specially composed lunch. Chef Björn Frantzén @ two star Guide Michel restaurant ‘Frantzén’ had prepared a three course lunch for us: Also present was Bollingers head winemaker Gilles Descotes.
A new house Champagne in the Champagne Bar by Richard Juhlin this week:
nv BOLLINGER ‘SPÉCIAL CUVÉE | 60PN 15 PM 25CH | SBnr 7418 | 429 sek | TASTINGNOTE ‘Yet again, one of my absolute favorites among nonvintage Champagnes. Since the beginning of the 1990s the wine has only been four years old when it enters the market and is vinified in steel vats. Even so, it’s fascinating to see how much 12 percent old reserve wines, vinified in oak barrels and stored in magnums, do to lift the product. The oakish, smoky, and deep Bollinger style develops after a couple of years in the bottle.’ 81(88) RJ POINTS
RJ ON BOLLINGER Joseph Bollinger was the German from Würtemberg who founded this ancient house in 1829. The French called him simply “Jacques.” The firm’s large estates in the best Pinot villages were bought by his sons Georges and Joseph, and in 1918 it was time for the next Jacques to take over the property. He became the mayor of Aÿ, but died during the German occupation at the age of forty-seven. The most colorful person in the history of the house is his widow, Lily Bollinger, who kept a watchful eye on every bunch of grapes by cycling through the vineyards regularly. Her rigorous demands for quality still run through the house to this day. Now Bollinger is run by Jérôme Philipon, who control over 144 hectares, providing 70 percent of the grape supply. The winemaker today is Gilles Descôtes. Besides the house’s exceptional vineyards, they also use very expensive vinification methods. All the vintage wines are fermented in small, aged oak barrels and are never filtered. Malolactic fermentation—which would probably take place very late in the process—is not encouraged either. The reserve wines are stored at low pressure in magnums. Bollinger make the heaviest and most full-bodied champagnes of any house, and their wines always have a smoky and hazelnut-y complexity that is very hard to beat. The vintage wines are among the very best, but the question is whether the rare and fantastic Vieilles Vignes Françaises, made with grapes from non-grafted Pinot vines, can reach even greater heights. All wines highly recomended.