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lunch with champagne deutz 9 november 2014

August Strindberg and his bohemic friends discussed politics and poetry all day long in this dining room, which is named from his book, Röda Rummet. The book was published in 1879. Richard & Björnstierne was invited to lunch @ Röda Rummet Berns Asiatiska by Fabrice Rosset, CEO of Champagne Deutz to taste 5 new releases on the Swedish market.

Bern Röda Rummet Berns Röda RummetBerns Asiatiska

nv DEUTZ ’BRUT CLASSIC’ | Aÿ | 38PN 32PM 30CH | SBnr 7487 | 380 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘The Champagne is always of a high quality, but has previously been sold too early. If you put the wine aside for a few years in the cellar, a fine, bready note will develop, which will tone down the exaggerated apple-like fruit. I tasted a couple of bottles at the beginning of 2001 that already had a classic maturity. Very good, exuberant, and complex at the moment. I hope this tendency continues.’  RJpoints 76(84)

1995 DEUTZ ’MILLIÉSIME VINOTHÈQUE’ | Aÿ | 60PN 10PM 30CH  | 1 349 SEK | Swedish allocation 36 bottles | TASTINGNOTE  ’It feels like Deutz vintage wine has finally found its true self. Classic, irresistible style, without forgetting its past. Everything is in its place in a totally satisfying way. Mature Pinot Noir and sublime, crispy fruit in lovely harmony.’  RJpoints 96(96)

1995 DEUTZ ’BLANC de BLANCS VINOTHÈQUE’ | 100CH  | 1 349 SEK | Swedish allocation 48 bottles |  TASTINGNOTE  ’40% Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger, 50% Avize & 10% Villers Marmery.  Fantastic and indeed somewhat oilier than the usual issue. I suppose that the autolytic character will give this wine an amazing base for acceleration a little further on in the future.’ RJpoints 96(96)

2002 DEUTZ ’CUVÉE WILLIAM DEUTZ’ | 62PN 11PM 27CH  | 1 100 SEK | Swedish allocation 360 bottles | TASTINGNOTE  ’Pinot Noir: 62%, from vineyards in Ay, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Bouzy, Louvois and Ambonnay. Chardonnay: 27%, from vineyards in Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, with a small proportion from the Montagne de Reims. Pinot Meunier: 11% from vineyards in Pierry and Chatillon-sur-Marne. Golden hue with crystal glints. Extremely fine bubbles. Delicate, rich and complex on the nose, developing floral and cooked white peach aromas, underpinned by lovely honey-sweet notes of spice and candied ginger. Well defined and clean on entry. Captivating, rich and full on the palate, the champagne releases a mélange of delicate cherry, wild peach and honey aromas. Its fine, harmonious balance shows promise. The finish is silky, complex and refined, with long lingering aromas.’ RJpoints 90(95)

2007 DEUTZ ’MILLÉSIME’ | 65PN 5PM 30CH  | 499 SEK | Swedish allocation 1 200 bottles |  TASTINGNOTE ’Pinot Noir: about 65%, from the terroirs of Bouzy, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Verzenay, Aÿ and Ambonnay. Chardonnay: about 30%, from the terroirs of Avize and Villers-Marmery. Pinot Meunier: about 5%, from Binson-et-Orquigny. Soft pleasing vanilla-scented and cacao-orienterad aroma and a soft fruit and bread dominated taste for relatively early consumption.’ RJpoints 82(85)

2009 DEUTZ ’ROSÉ MILLÉSIME’ | 80PN 10CH  | 499SEK | Swedish allocation 360 bottles |  TASTINGNOTE ’The vineyards, or crus, that supply the Pinot Noir are a gage of its qualities: Aÿ, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Bouzy and Verzenay. They epitomise the subtle and yet powerful qualities of the finest pinot noirs in Champagne. The style of this wine and its colour owe a lot to the incorporation into the blend of 8% red wine made by Deutz from a plot of old vines on the hillside at Aÿ – a plot known as « La Pelle » – and other specific plots at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ: « Cumaine » and « Charmont ». Tasted together with the worlds most expensive (!) caviar, the arctic char caviar – Northern Light Spirit at about €25 000 per kilo. The wine felt slightly dryer and and firmer then usual. The nose is very much Aÿ and has great potential, with the slightly heavy charachter of the vintage.’ RJpoints 83(88)

Champagne Deutz also launched a world premier – 2006 DEUTZ ’AMOUR de DEUTZ ROSÉ’ | 65PN 35CH  | aprox 1 500 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ’Fabrice Rosset has long wanted to profile of William Deutz Rosé from a gastronomically burgundy influenced wine into something sleeker and more modern. Unfortunately, I’m not entirely convinced that the style change was necessary, although I obviously understand and respect the decision. The bottle is incredibly beautiful, cool  and elegant as a Greta Garbo in black and white. The purity and minerality sharpness is surgically precise, but the intensity and the fruit is a little too toned down this time. More like a dry Belle Epoque than William Deutz at present.’ RJpoints 86(92)

Splash Deutz Bdb2

RJ ON DEUTZ  Two Germans, William Deutz and Pierre Gelderman, founded this prestigious firm in 1838 in Ay. Deutz was hit hard during the champagne uprising in 1911. For a long time the house was run by André Lallier, who made large investments in other wine regions. These include properties in the Rhone Valley, Maison Deutz in California and another sparkling wine from the Loire Valley. 1993 Louis Roederer acquired majority of Deutz. Today the firm is run proficiently by the sympathetic Fabrice Rosset. Winemaker Michel Davesne. 75% of the grapes are sourced from Grand- and premier cru plots. Deutz owns land in five villages. The property is among the most beautiful in Champagne and wines are also very distinguished. The style is laid-back, elegant and sophisticated with a medium full body and crystal clear fruit as well as an exemplary mousse. All wines are good, but Cuvée William Deutz Rosé is something special. Even the Vinothèque-wines and the white edition of William Deutz is world class. Deutz has launched an ultra sophisticated prestige champagne under the name Amour de Deutz selling like hotcakes since Madonna took it to heart. One of my real favorites!

Deutz bike

new house champagne @ the champagnebar by richard juhlin 31 oktober 2014

As the regular champagnebar guest is often frequenting us we change the house Champagne every fortnight. These weeks we focus a little more on this producer. For example, we serve the current cuvée préstige per glass during those weeks. It represented the most famous and influential Champagne houses and the most publicized growers.

2007 HATT et SÖNER ’GRANDE CUVÉE BRUT’ magnum [100CH]

Bergères-les-Vertus | Champagne | France | Swedish importer: JM Dryckeshandel | SBnr 7696 SBprice 379 sek

TASTING NOTE ’Grande Cuvée Brut is made from 100% chardonnay from the four southernmost villages of the Côte des Blancs, but especially from Vertus and Bergeres. Only the first pressing. No malolactic fermentation completed, six years on the leece and 6 grams of sugar per liter. Good clean chardonnay character with a certain green apple peel tone that will be rounded towards honey over time.’ RJpoints 74(79)

RJ ON HATT et SÖNER The Champagne brand Francois Vallois is being phased out and will make way for Hatt et Söner. The company SARL Francois Vallois in France has changed its name and now have two names during the decommissioning: Comte de Vallois, Hatt et Söner and will switch to only Hatt et Söner when Francois Vallois is completely phased out. The grapes origins mainly from Bergeres-les-Vertus and Vertus (both 95%), but they also purchases from Oger and Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger which are near by and are 100% grand cru villages. For wine production they use the cooperative in Vertus, but are currently building up their own production capacity. When completed they intend to become a full Négociant Manipulant, ie obtaining domain status.

1996 krug ’clos du mesnil’ 30 september 2014

1996 KRUG ’CLOS de MESNIL’  | 100CH  | TASTINGNOTE ‘This legendary vintage was harvested on the 23 and 24 September, giving only the equivalent of 9,800 bottles to the whole, wide yearning world. It makes one feel vertiginous to know that the whole champagne world is waiting for this assessment, especially if I do not really feel that I can make any decisive assessment. This wine is assuredly as tough as the 96 Salon, but at the same time oily and opulent, which leads to conclusions that cry out for early drinking. Nothing could be more erroneous. If one wants to experience the entire spectrum one will have to wait for at least 15 years after the launch. The elegance is tremendous. Starting to be fantastic in 2010.’ |  RJpoints 98(99)

double apéritif @ café rotsunda 3 augusti 2014

I was invited with Le Phantôme & Diamond Lager to Café Rotsunda for a summer dinner. As usual the night started with some premium bubbles:

1995 DOM PÉRIGNON ‘CUVÉE DOM PÉRIGNON’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | Dom Pérignon | 48PN 52CH | RJpoints 93(94)

TASTING NOTEHere is a soft, charming, sensual, and classic Dom Pérignon. The wine carpets the palate with the softest silky texture you can desire. This supple, complex wine runs down your throat with the greatest ease, trailing a fresh aftertaste. The aromatic palette is the same as usual, with its exotic fruit and breakfasty notes, as well as an unusually strong dash of vanilla that is a distinguishing feature of the vintage.’

Dom Pérignon1

RJ ON DP Dom Pérignon – the name alone makes most of us break out in a delightful smile. When we think of this 17th-century monk from Hautvillers – so often pointed out as the father of Champagne – we either regard him with historical reverence, or associate his name with the proudest of all wine labels and everything else that follows in its glamorous, sparkling wake. Just imagine all the classic movie scenes that have been sweetened by a bottle of Dom Pérignon. Bond movies usually spring to mind. Countless times I’ve sat and sighed over agents with a license to kill: villains and exquisite women in seductively luxurious surroundings, all revelling in icy Dom Pérignon. Most champagne enthusiasts have their favourite scene. Mine is when Scaramanga, the man with the golden gun, shoots the cork off a bottle carried on a tray by his dwarfish servant Nic-Nack, along a now-famous Thai beach. The most comical scene must be when Sean Connery is served a 1957 Dom Pérignon, a vintage that never existed. Brilliant research!

Salon140417_032-2

 

1990 SALON ‘CUVÉE ’S’ de SALON’ | Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger | Champagne | France | Salon | 100CH | RJpoints 93(96)

TASTING NOTE ’Salon demands longer cellaring than any other champagne. The wines do not go through malolactic fermentation and have a razor-sharp acidity in their youth, which carries the wine to unparalleled heights through the years. A mature Salon expresses a gigantically broad aromatic spectrum, and has a Burgundy-like vinosity. The stringency is maintained throughout the wine’s life, and as Salon has almost no dosage, the wine never becomes an exotic charmer like Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, but it is unmatched in terms of class and purity. Salon is only made in exceptionally good years, and in other years the grapes go to make up Delamotte. 

At the age of five this 1990 still tasted like a barrel sample! Spot-on and apply, with chablis like aromas and a magnificent young fruit. Today far more developed and at the same time in a little bit boring phase where aromas of dried hay and malt(!) dominate over finesse and fruit. In magnum the wine feels completely different with a nearly Dom Ruinart-like roasted and broad house style.’

Louis Roederer -’a voyage into the making of brut prémier’ 23 juni 2014

The still wines of Champagnes, vins clairs, very seldom leaves the cellars of Reims. and equally seldom outsiders from the Champagne industry have the opportunity to taste them. Under the guidens of Chef de caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon I had the opportunity to go through rhe parts that ends up in the final blend of Brut Premier. (mer…)