After a well deserved summer break, The Champagnebar by Richard Juhlin will open this Friday. We start with a new house Champagne – from Gosset in Aÿ – ‘Grande Reserve’.
Björnstierne was invited by the new importer of Gosset, Espumante, to a tasting @ Magnusson Fine Wine. mv GOSSET ‘BRUT EXCELLENCE’ | 45PN 13PM 32CH | aprox 299 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘Less mighty and concentrated than the Grande Réserve, but more enjoyable in large amounts. The wine is rich in Pinot fruit and chocolate aromas. The dosage is unnecessarily high in both of Gosset’s nonvintage Champagnes.’ RJpoints 76(83
mv GOSSET ‘GRANDE RÉSERVE’ | 44PN 10PM 46CH | SBnr 87661 | 399 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘A plump, oily champagne with tons of ripe apples and a fleshy Pinot flavour. It is only in the finish which is rich in mineral that one can detect the Chardonnay grapes. A wonderfully opulent standard champagne and always one of the best. With aging it gets filld with sweet almond and nutty aromas.’ RJpoints 84(90)
mv GOSSET ‘GRANDE BLANC de BLANCS’ | 100CH | SBnr 77477 | 549 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘A wine I had never spotted in a blind tasting. There is nothing of the oxidative style that usually characterize Gosset. The wine is grande, austere and somewhat ascetic. The class turns out, however gently in the glass. Super Young!’ RJpoints 78(85)
2004 GOSSET ‘GRANDE MILLÉSIME’ | 44PN 56CH | SBnr 82190 | 599 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘Crispy and scratchy while recently disgorged but a classic broad Gosset with all the rich dominated apple notes and that will be so enjoyable over time.’ RJpoints 84(92)
2002 GOSSET ‘CELEBRIS EXTRA BRUT’ | 36PN 65CH | 999 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘A giant that has not reached full harmony yet. Fairly dry, rustic yet serious. Can be really big!’ RJpoints 86(91)
1998 GOSSET ‘CELEBRIS EXTRA BRUT’ | 36PN 65CH | 999 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘All winemakers strive for equilibrium in one way or another. Gosset, with their oxidative, opulent style, must battle to achieve equilibrium by having a high level of acid and low dosage. In this case they have chosen to make an Extra Brut, which is a choice that I would not have made. I think that a slightly higher dosage would have made the wine rather more pleasing to the public and more harmonious from the start as well as protecting it against future oxidation. There is a great deal to indicate that its maturity will reach a slender peak, which one will have to aim at in order to be completely satisfied. This wine is otherwise clear and beautifully golden with lively mousse and a pompous Aÿ-Pinot aroma of an animal and red fruit type. Full-bodied and quite divorced from its actual grape composition at present. A short, dry finish on an otherwise lovely taste trip in the country of Aÿ.’ RJpoints 88(88)
mv GOSSET ‘GRANDE ROSÉ’ | 44PN 56CH | SBnr 7405 | 499 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘Big and powerful like all of Gossets wines. Somewhat rustic and one-dimensional with aromas that mark it as a grower produced wine. The bouquet evokes thoughts of red apple peelings and plums. The sensation is very round and compact to the palate. Sometimes to malic.’ RJpoints 88(92 2007 GOSSET ‘CELEBRIS ROSÉ’ | 39PN 61CH | SBnr 7405 | 499 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘Big and powerful like all of Gossets wines. Somewhat rustic and one-dimensional with aromas that mark it as a grower produced wine. The bouquet evokes thoughts of red apple peelings and plums. The sensation is very round and compact to the palate. Sometimes to malic.’ RJpoints 92(93) RJ ON GOSSET Ruinart might be the oldest Champagne-producing firm, but Gosset made still wines much earlier. Pierre Gosset sold his “vin d’Aÿ” as a négociant as early as 1584. Today the family owns twelve hectares in the villages of Aÿ, Bouzy, Mareuil, and Rilly, all stocked up with Pinot Noir. This is only enough for 20 per cent of their needs, but the character of the villages is clearly apparent in their vintage wines. Gosset is one of the true traditionalists of the region, with labelling and disgorging being done manually. They also use old oak barrels in which they store their vintage wines for a brief period of time, thus imparting just a hint of oak character to the wine. The wines are always full-bodied and rich, with a great element of Aÿ Pinot and high-class Chardonnay. The winemaker is the ingenious Jean-Pierre Mareignier. In 1994, after more than 400 years of family ownership, Gosset was sold to the family group Renaud-Cointreau, which owns Cognac Pierre Frapin Grande Champagne. As Gosset is known and appreciated by initiated wine-lovers the world over, they can increase their international presence while still keeping their high quality. The distinctive cuvées are served at the finest restaurants. The vintage wines are especially enjoyable with the ethereal ’52 as a milestone—it won third prize at the Millennium Tasting! One of the absolute foremost domains in the Champagne region. The Célebris Blanc de Blancs is an utterly marvellous wine that turns ones thoughts to Krug Clos du Mesnil in combination with Charles Heidsieck and of course the finer vintages from Gosset. They have chosen to make this magical wine non-vintage with a great proportion of reserve wines and long storage leading to an almost perfect maturity at release. The wine has a powerful volume and simultaneously equilibristic delicacy. Sweet pineapple, orange, apricot and honey with a nutty base to the taste and freezia, hawthorn and almond in the aroma. Brilliant!