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the sthlm dom pérignon Œnothèque tasting 10 september 2015

The tasting season @ The Champagnebar by Richard Juhlin in Stockholm started with a bang! We poured 6 versions of Dom Pérignon Œnothèque.

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new house champagne @ the champagnebar by richard juhlin 25 november 2014

Since The Champagnebar by Richard Juhlin @ MOOD STHLM is often frequented by our guests and members we change the  house champagne every fortnight. These weeks we focus a little more on this producer. For example, we serve the current cuvée préstige by the glass during these weeks. This represented the most famous and influential champagne houses and the most sought after growers. (mer…)

duelling champagnes @ broms – karlaplan 27 oktober 2014

Yesterday Björnstierne started up the wine club ’Food & wine by Björnstierne’ @ Broms – karlaplan. The tastinmg was a duell between old time favourites: Pol Roger, Bollinger & Louis Roederer.

Food & Wine

nv POL ROGER ’BRUT RESERVE’ | EPERNAY | 33PN 33PM 34CH | aprox  389 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘I love the entire range of the firm’s products, from the regular non-vintage all the way to the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, and I guarantee you that every sound bottle you drink will impart a life-enhancing experience of pure joy. Some of the best bottles of nonvintage Champagne I have tasted have been well-stored Pol Roger. The ability to age with grace despite its Pinot Meunier content is the wine’s best asset. After a bad patch they are back on track again.’ RJpoints 75(85) 

2000 POL ROGER ’CUVEE WINSTON CHURCHILL’ | EPERNAY | ASSEMBLAGE SECRET | aprox  1 295 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘Not at all exciting when it was released. The tones are here but in an unusually weak form. Will time provide enough evolving to provide the desired push? Oh, yes. Already very worthy of its label. Nice smokey complexity. Fat and already matured.’ RJpoints 94(94)

 

nv LOUIS ROEDERER ’BRUT PREMIER’ | REIMS | 62PN 8PM 30CH   | aprox  399 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ’Up to 20 percent of the oak-aged reserve wine is used in the nonvintage Champagne Brut Premier. Roederer has no set recipe regarding malolactic fermentation the personal qualities of the wine differ from case to case. Roederer is without doubt a brilliant Champagne house with an exceptional portfolio of wines. The nonvintage Champagne is brilliant. Invariably praised, nonvintage Champagne with a high proportion of reserve wines that had been stored in big oak barrels. Four years in the bottle before disgorging only the first pressing is used. For several years, an appley, storable, and decently good nonvintage Champagne. Today, a Cristal-like Champagne with outstanding finesse. Fantastic in magnum.’ RJpoints 83(91)

2006 LOUIS ROEDERER ’CRISTAL’ | REIMS | 60PN 40CH   | aprox  399 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ’I quake at the thought of how much Cristal is going to be stolen from the cradle at nightclubs and fashionable restaurants in the rich parts of the world. But this version is just fantastic from the start. A colossal power and beautiful rumbling pinot maturity. It’s like chewing on the ripest grapes from Aÿ and Verzenay. At the same time ultra stylish down all the unmistakable cristal essence, peach and mango sweetness, pineapple coconut, vanilla and unreal sprightly acidity and citrus flowery. Many similarities with 2002, but with a clearer pinot touch.’ RJpoints 95(97)

nv BOLLINGER ’SPECIAL CUVEE ’ | AŸ | 60PN 15PM 25CH   | aprox  439 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ’Yet again, one of my absolute favorites among nonvintage Champagnes. Since the beginning of the 1990s the wine has only been four years old when it enters the market and is vinified in steel vats. Even so, it’s fascinating to see how much 12 percent old reserve wines, vinified in oak barrels and stored in magnums, do to lift the product. The oakish, smoky, and deep Bollinger style develops after a couple of years in the bottle.’ RJpoints 81(89)

2004 BOLLINGER ’LA GRANDE ANNEE’ | AŸ | 60PN 40CH   | aprox  899 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘Richer and greater than I had expected. The oak maybe a little too obvious, but in the process of integration. Nice fresh fruitiness, delicious unobtrusive vanilla tones and a crisp minerality that in the current situation overshadows the mushroom tones.’ RJpoints 93(94)

1979 Henriot ’Réserve Baron Philippe de Rothschild’ 16 augusti 2014

1979 HENRIOT ’RÉSERVE BARON PHILIPPE de ROTHSCHILD’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | Henriot | 50PN 50CH | RJpoints 95(95)

TASTING NOTE ‘The Baron’s own Champagne from 1979 is similar to the ’81 for the most part. The fruit may be a touch richer in this wine. Previously this wine appeared clumsy and low in acidity. Today we know better. The concentration is magnificent, almost like a ’76 at the same time the wine enters with a new floral and citrus-fresh Chardonnay side. Completely wonderful! The equal proportions of Pinot and Chardonnay give the wine balance. Baron Philippe is always a heavier and more full-bodied Champagne than Baccarat. Slightly less impresive, when last tasted.’

RJ ON HENRIOT Joseph Henriot is one of Champagne’s most powerful men. After having been the boss of Veuve Clicquot for many years, he returned to Henriot in 1994. Today the firm is run by his modest and extremely competent son, Stanislas Henriot. Winemaker is Laurent Fresnet. The Henriot family were established as growers in Champagne by 1640 they started their own Champagne house in 1808. The firm’s strength has always been the high-class vineyards they owned in Côte des Blancs. Today they only own twenty-five hectares of vineyards in Chouilly, Avize, and Épernay. The total proportion of Chardonnay obtained from the firm’s fine contracts with growers is more than 20 percent; it dominates the house-style with its clean, elegant, fresh citrus fruit. The Henriot family has always had strong ties with Charles Heidsieck, and still shares offices and wineries. With Clicquot, on the other hand, they share a cellar. The firm’s biggest export market is Switzerland, where Henriot’s dry, classic, slightly discreet Champagnes are a great success. The firm did well at the Millennium Tasting. Personally, I like these elegant classics more and more. Some of the most drinkable wines in the world has got the Henriot Label. Very close to 5 stars.

double apéritif @ café rotsunda 3 augusti 2014

I was invited with Le Phantôme & Diamond Lager to Café Rotsunda for a summer dinner. As usual the night started with some premium bubbles:

1995 DOM PÉRIGNON ‘CUVÉE DOM PÉRIGNON’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | Dom Pérignon | 48PN 52CH | RJpoints 93(94)

TASTING NOTEHere is a soft, charming, sensual, and classic Dom Pérignon. The wine carpets the palate with the softest silky texture you can desire. This supple, complex wine runs down your throat with the greatest ease, trailing a fresh aftertaste. The aromatic palette is the same as usual, with its exotic fruit and breakfasty notes, as well as an unusually strong dash of vanilla that is a distinguishing feature of the vintage.’

Dom Pérignon1

RJ ON DP Dom Pérignon – the name alone makes most of us break out in a delightful smile. When we think of this 17th-century monk from Hautvillers – so often pointed out as the father of Champagne – we either regard him with historical reverence, or associate his name with the proudest of all wine labels and everything else that follows in its glamorous, sparkling wake. Just imagine all the classic movie scenes that have been sweetened by a bottle of Dom Pérignon. Bond movies usually spring to mind. Countless times I’ve sat and sighed over agents with a license to kill: villains and exquisite women in seductively luxurious surroundings, all revelling in icy Dom Pérignon. Most champagne enthusiasts have their favourite scene. Mine is when Scaramanga, the man with the golden gun, shoots the cork off a bottle carried on a tray by his dwarfish servant Nic-Nack, along a now-famous Thai beach. The most comical scene must be when Sean Connery is served a 1957 Dom Pérignon, a vintage that never existed. Brilliant research!

Salon140417_032-2

 

1990 SALON ‘CUVÉE ’S’ de SALON’ | Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger | Champagne | France | Salon | 100CH | RJpoints 93(96)

TASTING NOTE ’Salon demands longer cellaring than any other champagne. The wines do not go through malolactic fermentation and have a razor-sharp acidity in their youth, which carries the wine to unparalleled heights through the years. A mature Salon expresses a gigantically broad aromatic spectrum, and has a Burgundy-like vinosity. The stringency is maintained throughout the wine’s life, and as Salon has almost no dosage, the wine never becomes an exotic charmer like Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, but it is unmatched in terms of class and purity. Salon is only made in exceptionally good years, and in other years the grapes go to make up Delamotte. 

At the age of five this 1990 still tasted like a barrel sample! Spot-on and apply, with chablis like aromas and a magnificent young fruit. Today far more developed and at the same time in a little bit boring phase where aromas of dried hay and malt(!) dominate over finesse and fruit. In magnum the wine feels completely different with a nearly Dom Ruinart-like roasted and broad house style.’

1964 Henriot ’Vinothèque’ 11 juni 2014

2014 is the year for a lot of celebrations – a lot of friends are turning 50 this year. We started to celebrate the Swedish National Day the 6th of June with a grand bottle:

1964 HENRIOT ’VINOTHÈQUE’ | Reims | Champagne | France | price €850 | 60PN 40CH | TASTING NOTE  Absolutely stunning Champagne! One of the most magnificent wine experiences I have been through and probably the most delicious wine I had drunk in the last five years. The balance is outstanding and the nectar equally nougat saturated and the nut roasted fruit essence is lovely. BJ 98(98) 

RJ ON 1964  ★★★★★  This wonderful vintage is often compared with 1966. The 1964s have today, with few excep- tions, a scent of mint chocolate, bergamot oil, freshly baked bread, and a rich toffee as well as a concentrated taste at the peak of their life cycle. If you want to try old champagne, but are not willing to take a risk, the 1964 might be the safest bet. The flower-filled prestige champagne Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque made its debut with this vintage that is still the house’s best. Dom Pérignon is another choice this year next to Louis Roederer Cristal, and Heidsieck & Co Monopole Diamant Bleu.

RJ ON HENRIOT Joseph Henriot is one of Champagne’s most powerful men. After having been the boss of Veuve Clicquot for many years, he returned to Henriot in 1994. Today the firm is run by his modest and extremely competent son, Stanislas Henriot. Winemaker is Laurent Fresnet. The Henriot family were established as growers in Champagne by 1640 they started their own Champagne house in 1808. The firm’s strength has always been the high-class vineyards they owned in Côte des Blancs. Today they only own twenty-five hectares of vineyards in Chouilly, Avize, and Épernay. The total proportion of Chardonnay obtained from the firm’s fine contracts with growers is more than 20 percent; it dominates the house-style with its clean, elegant, fresh citrus fruit. The Henriot family has always had strong ties with Charles Heidsieck, and still shares offices and wineries. With Clicquot, on the other hand, they share a cellar. The firm’s biggest export market is Switzerland, where Henriot’s dry, classic, slightly discreet Champagnes are a great success. The firm did well at the Millennium Tasting. Personally, I like these elegant classics more and more. Some of the most drinkable wines in the world has got the Henriot Label. Very close to 5 stars.

champagne spring trip – day 3 – Château Saran 4 april 2014

At 6 pm we had a grand welcoming at the most splendid mansion in Champagne, Château Saran and check-in for all in the group. Apéritif followed by Dom Pérignon dinner and last night champagne party.

DP Oenothèque96

1996 DOM PÉRIGNON ’DP OENOTHÈQUE ’ magnum | Epernay | Champagne | France | Dom Pérignon | 50PN 50CH | RJpoints 95(97)

TASTING NOTE Has won yet to be in contact with the lees even longer. A further shift in this masterpiece. Put the magnums away magnum and drink from 2025. IN bottle it’s already sweet with a strong seafood elements, classical toasty, nutty richness backed by a senseless acid and length.

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1990 DOM PÉRIGNON ’DP OENOTHÈQUE’ magnum | Epernay | Champagne | France | Dom Pérignon | 42PN 58CH | RJpoints 94(96)

TASTING NOTE Richard Geoffroy’s first vintage. During a big Gala night full of celebrities in London in 2004, several bottles exhibited problems with their corks and a mineral-laden introversion that few of us had expected. The finer specimens had an exciting nose – sea water, oyster shell, minerals, and spices. The taste was dry, anorectic, and clear as a bell, but will become seductive again in its next phase of life. 

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1990 DOM PÉRIGNON ’DP ROSÉ OENOTHÈQUE’ magnum | Epernay | Champagne | France | Dom Pérignon | 50PN 50CH | RJpoints 95(96)

TASTING NOTE Richard Geoffroy’s first vintage. Incredibly stylish and a marvel of yummy richness wrapped in velvet. Deep Burgundian, and an almost religious experience on magnum of Château Saran.

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1976 DOM PÉRIGNON ’DP OENOTHÈQUE’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | Dom Pérignon | 50PN 50CH | RJpoints 97(98)

TASTING NOTE Fabulously chewy and powerful with an indestructible power and a layered richness. Multifaceted nose with an elusive, almost flowery undertone and beautifully nutty, toasted, and honeysuckle elements. An embracing richness is combined with a fleshy, soft sensation in the mouth. The twist exudes ruby grapefruit and coffee-flavored candy. In April 2014 some signe of decline in 5 bottles opened. A phase or slow way down the hill?

 

15 champagne lovers | 11 champagnes | 8 vintages | 165 glasses | 3 dishes