This Saturday our dear friend Marina Olsson, Champagne lover, gathered a group of Champagne connaiseurs at Vinkällaren Grappe in Stockholm for a grand Rosé Champagne tasting.
August Strindberg and his bohemic friends discussed politics and poetry all day long in this dining room, which is named from his book, Röda Rummet. The book was published in 1879. Richard & Björnstierne was invited to lunch @ Röda Rummet – Berns Asiatiska by Fabrice Rosset, CEO of Champagne Deutz to taste 5 new releases on the Swedish market.
nv DEUTZ ‘BRUT CLASSIC’ | Aÿ | 38PN 32PM 30CH | SBnr 7487 | 380 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘The Champagne is always of a high quality, but has previously been sold too early. If you put the wine aside for a few years in the cellar, a fine, bready note will develop, which will tone down the exaggerated apple-like fruit. I tasted a couple of bottles at the beginning of 2001 that already had a classic maturity. Very good, exuberant, and complex at the moment. I hope this tendency continues.’ RJpoints 76(84)
1995 DEUTZ ‘MILLIÉSIME VINOTHÈQUE’ | Aÿ | 60PN 10PM 30CH | 1 349 SEK | Swedish allocation 36 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘It feels like Deutz vintage wine has finally found its true self. Classic, irresistible style, without forgetting its past. Everything is in its place in a totally satisfying way. Mature Pinot Noir and sublime, crispy fruit in lovely harmony.’ RJpoints 96(96)
1995 DEUTZ ‘BLANC de BLANCS VINOTHÈQUE’ | 100CH | 1 349 SEK | Swedish allocation 48 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘40% Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger, 50% Avize & 10% Villers Marmery. Fantastic and indeed somewhat oilier than the usual issue. I suppose that the autolytic character will give this wine an amazing base for acceleration a little further on in the future.’ RJpoints 96(96)
2002 DEUTZ ‘CUVÉE WILLIAM DEUTZ’ | 62PN 11PM 27CH | 1 100 SEK | Swedish allocation 360 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘Pinot Noir: 62%, from vineyards in Ay, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Bouzy, Louvois and Ambonnay. Chardonnay: 27%, from vineyards in Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, with a small proportion from the Montagne de Reims. Pinot Meunier: 11% from vineyards in Pierry and Chatillon-sur-Marne. Golden hue with crystal glints. Extremely fine bubbles. Delicate, rich and complex on the nose, developing floral and cooked white peach aromas, underpinned by lovely honey-sweet notes of spice and candied ginger. Well defined and clean on entry. Captivating, rich and full on the palate, the champagne releases a mélange of delicate cherry, wild peach and honey aromas. Its fine, harmonious balance shows promise. The finish is silky, complex and refined, with long lingering aromas.’ RJpoints 90(95)
2007 DEUTZ ‘MILLÉSIME’ | 65PN 5PM 30CH | 499 SEK | Swedish allocation 1 200 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘Pinot Noir: about 65%, from the terroirs of Bouzy, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Verzenay, Aÿ and Ambonnay. Chardonnay: about 30%, from the terroirs of Avize and Villers-Marmery. Pinot Meunier: about 5%, from Binson-et-Orquigny. Soft pleasing vanilla-scented and cacao-orienterad aroma and a soft fruit and bread dominated taste for relatively early consumption.’ RJpoints 82(85)
2009 DEUTZ ‘ROSÉ MILLÉSIME’ | 80PN 10CH | 499SEK | Swedish allocation 360 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘The vineyards, or crus, that supply the Pinot Noir are a gage of its qualities: Aÿ, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Bouzy and Verzenay. They epitomise the subtle and yet powerful qualities of the finest pinot noirs in Champagne. The style of this wine and its colour owe a lot to the incorporation into the blend of 8% red wine made by Deutz from a plot of old vines on the hillside at Aÿ – a plot known as « La Pelle » – and other specific plots at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ: « Cumaine » and « Charmont ». Tasted together with the worlds most expensive (!) caviar, the arctic char caviar – Northern Light Spirit at about €25 000 per kilo. The wine felt slightly dryer and and firmer then usual. The nose is very much Aÿ and has great potential, with the slightly heavy charachter of the vintage.’ RJpoints 83(88)
Champagne Deutz also launched a world premier – 2006 DEUTZ ‘AMOUR de DEUTZ ROSÉ’ | 65PN 35CH | aprox 1 500 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘Fabrice Rosset has long wanted to profile of William Deutz Rosé from a gastronomically burgundy influenced wine into something sleeker and more modern. Unfortunately, I’m not entirely convinced that the style change was necessary, although I obviously understand and respect the decision. The bottle is incredibly beautiful, cool and elegant as a Greta Garbo in black and white. The purity and minerality sharpness is surgically precise, but the intensity and the fruit is a little too toned down this time. More like a dry Belle Epoque than William Deutz at present.’ RJpoints 86(92)
RJ ON DEUTZ Two Germans, William Deutz and Pierre Gelderman, founded this prestigious firm in 1838 in Ay. Deutz was hit hard during the champagne uprising in 1911. For a long time the house was run by André Lallier, who made large investments in other wine regions. These include properties in the Rhone Valley, Maison Deutz in California and another sparkling wine from the Loire Valley. 1993 Louis Roederer acquired majority of Deutz. Today the firm is run proficiently by the sympathetic Fabrice Rosset. Winemaker Michel Davesne. 75% of the grapes are sourced from Grand- and premier cru plots. Deutz owns land in five villages. The property is among the most beautiful in Champagne and wines are also very distinguished. The style is laid-back, elegant and sophisticated with a medium full body and crystal clear fruit as well as an exemplary mousse. All wines are good, but Cuvée William Deutz Rosé is something special. Even the Vinothèque-wines and the white edition of William Deutz is world class. Deutz has launched an ultra sophisticated prestige champagne under the name Amour de Deutz selling like hotcakes since Madonna took it to heart. One of my real favorites!
For the members in The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club we set up at monthly tasting. The theme this time was ‘odd auction bottles’. The bottles has been purchased at Swedish Champagne auctions the last three years.
2004 DIEBOLT-VALLOIS ’FLEUR de PASSION’ | Cramant | 100CH | aprox 1 000 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘A new super-wine is born. Jacques Diebolt has put his heart and soul into the 3,000 bottles that are sold under this label. The philosophy is to copy earlier generation’s methods of craftsmanship: only the oldest vines, no malolactic fermentation, storage and fermentation in small oak barrels, lengthy maturation in the bottle. The result is astonishing. Young and graceful with chiselled elegance and floral beauty. SoYoung and graceful with chiselled elegance and floral beauty. Some oakiness starting to emerge. Suddenly grand and a year later stony and mineral salty.’ RJpoints 93(94)
1999 DEUTZ ’CUVEE WILLIAM DEUTZ’ | Aÿ | 55PN 10PM 35CH | aprox 1 500 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘William Deutz is a Champagne that impresses me more and more. It is early days still in the life of this young wine. The fruity loveliness and complexity in this closed bud of beauty are however quite unmistakeable. Yet another magnificent William with which to gild the future.’ RJpoints 90(94)
1998 DEUTZ ’CUVEE WILLIAM DEUTZ’ | Aÿ | 55PN 10PM 35CH | aprox 1 500 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ’A bit mean and apple-tinged up to now. The almost earthy stoniness of this vintage is not something that contributes to giving the wine charm, either. It will certainly improve well and truly, but it is hardly likely to be one of the great Williams, is it? The sudden strawberry maturity in the finish makes me ask the question.’ RJpoints 93(93)
1999 DEUTZ ’CUVEE WILLIAM DEUTZ ROSE’ | Aÿ | 55PN 25CH | aprox 1 500 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ’Yet another magical edition of this wine. Please do not drink it yet. Of course the wine is seductively delicious with its focused strawberry essence, but the layers will split up and they have the potential for becoming even more subtle and captivating with time. Be patient!’ RJpoints 92(94)
1992 VILMART ’CUVEE CREATION’ | RILLY-LA-MONTAGNE | 60PN 40CH | aprox 900 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ’Vilmart has quickly established cult status, only topped among growers by J. Selosse. A transparent bottle, small barrels, but younger vines. Surprisingly oxidative and miles from Couer de Cuvée from this vintage. A rich, rustic flavour of honey, toffee, leather and fallen fruit.’ BJpoints 90(90)
1998 VILMART ’CUVEE CREATION’ | RILLY-LA-MONTAGNE | 60PN 40CH | aprox 900 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ’Reminiscent of 1980 Noble Cuvée at the same age. Exactly the same aroma of meringue, sabayone and Brie. Creamy-sweet fruitiness with an element of vanilla. Not at all as compact or barrel-influenced as the Coeur de Cuvée.’ BJpoints 88(88)
1990 JACQUESSON ’CUVEE EMPEREUR NAPOLEON NON DOSE’ | DIZY | 54PN 46CH | aprox 4 500 SEK magnum | TASTINGNOTE ’A highly successful Champagne, where finesse and richness go hand in hand in excellent fashion. Hazelnut, white chocolate, honey, licorice, and a hint of oak are found in this refreshing and clearly youthful taste. Brilliant winemaking!’ RJpoints 94(95)
1990 JACQUESSON ’AVIZE BLANCS de BLANCS’ | DIZY | 54PN 46CH | aprox 2 000 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ’Their first vintage Blanc de Blancs was released in October 1994, replacing the much-praised nonvintage version with a lot of fuss and bother. I don’t know if this remarkable vintage was the reason for the huge jump in quality, but it is clear that this is a much broader and richer Champagne. The mousse melts in the mouth like the finest caviar, the nose is rich in bread aromas and Granny Smith apples, the flavor is soft and harmonious with a long, buttery, burgundy-like aftertaste. Ah, they are just so clever at Jacquesson’s! I am greatly charmed by this wine since the dryness, sometimes exaggerated, is bridged over by the buttery, rich, exotic fruitiness of the vintage. Very typical of the vineyard.’ RJpoints 94(95)
1989 HENRIOT ’CUVEE DES ENCHANTELUER’ | REIMS | 45PN 55CH | aprox 2 500 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ’The firm’s new cuvée de prestige is identical to Cuvée Baccarat. Tasted newly disgorged before the wine had gone onto the market. That’s why it was not so strange to detect a slightly restrained, unevolved characteristic about this—in all other ways—classic, house-typical Champagne. Vanilla, peach, lemon, rolls, bread, and mineral clothed in a fat, balanced exterior. Beautiful and developable. Highly reminiscent of Henriot’s delightful ’76s.’ RJpoints 94(94)
DEUTZ ‘BRUT CLASSIC ROSÉ’ │AŸ │ DEUTZ │100PN │RJ 81(86) │TASTING NOTE ‘A new non-vintage rosé champagne with depth if as yet a rather too young Pinot character with 8% Aÿ Pinot for colour. Cherry and beetroot dominate over raspberry and strawberry up to now, but time will change all that and a warm vanilla-draped beauty is going to show itself in due course.’
2005 AGRAPART ‘BLANC DE BLANCS MINERAL’ │ AVIZE │ AGRAPART │100CH │RJ 92(94) │TASTING NOTE ‘Made from old vines at Cramant and Avize. Fantastically buttery and round. Especially so with regard to the comprehensive aroma. Love at first sight and more directly so than with Agrapart’s wines from 2002. Not as multi-facetted however but totally dependent upon its plumpness, intensity and charm. One of the bull’s eyes of the vintage.’
We were specially invited to a timeless and luxurious Lunch at Deutz with amazing Vinothèque-wines. As one of the greatest high spots of the journey we would taste one of the very few remaining magnums of Deutz Blanc de Noirs d´Aÿ Vinothèque. One of the best and most famous champagnes in the world with an auction price of 14 000 euros.
RJ ON DEUTZ In 1838 two Germans, William Deutz and Pierre Glederman, founded this distinguished firm in Aÿ. Deutz was hit hard during the Champagne Uprising of 1911. The house was long run by André Lallier, who has made large investments in other wine districts. Notable among these properties are Delas in the Rhône Valley, Maison Deutz in California, as well as another site producing sparkling wine in the Loire Valley. In 1993, Louis Roederer gained a majority stockholding in Deutz.
Nowadays the firm is ably run by the very likeable Fabrice Rosset. Winemaker is Michel Davesne. Seventy-five percent of the grapes are bought from grand cru and premier cru villages. Deutz themselves own land in five villages. The property is among the most beautiful in Champagne, and even the wines are very distinguished.
The style is laid-back, elegant, and sophisticated, with a medium body, crystal-clear fruit, and an exemplary mousse. All the wines are good, but the Cuvée William Deutz Rosé is something special. Their Vinothèque wines and the white William are also world class wines. Recently Deutz launched Amour de Deutz, a new ultra-sophisticated prestige Champagne. It has sold like hot cakes since Madonna took a liking to it—they say that there is always a chilled bottle ready wherever she goes.The 2002 is pure essence.
One of my absolute favourite houses.In 1838 two Germans, William Deutz and Pierre Glederman, founded this distinguished firm in Aÿ. Deutz was hit hard during the Champagne Uprising of 1911. The house was long run by André Lallier, who has made large investments in other wine districts. Notable among these properties are Delas in the Rhône Valley, Maison Deutz in California, as well as another site producing sparkling wine in the Loire Valley. In 1993, Louis Roederer gained a majority stockholding in Deutz.
Nowadays the firm is ably run by the very likeable Fabrice Rosset. Winemaker is Michel Davesne. Seventy-five percent of the grapes are bought from grand cru and premier cru villages. Deutz themselves own land in five villages. The property is among the most beautiful in Champagne, and even the wines are very distinguished. The style is laid-back, elegant, and sophisticated, with a medium body, crystal-clear fruit, and an exemplary mousse. All the wines are good, but the Cuvée William Deutz Rosé is something special. Their Vinothèque wines and the white William are also world class wines. Recently Deutz launched Amour de Deutz, a new ultra-sophisticated prestige Champagne. It has sold like hot cakes since Madonna took a liking to it—they say that there is always a chilled bottle ready wherever she goes.The 2002 is pure essence. One of my absolute favourite houses.
Lunch @ 16 rue Jeanson – Aÿ
2008 DEUTZ ‘BLANC de BLANCS’ | Aÿ | Champagne | France | Deutz | 100CH | RJpoints 90(94)
TASTING NOTE From the start, extremely voluptuous, round and generous. Here are all the cute yellow-white dessert assiocitionS. Creamy sweet, meringue-like and light citrus exotic. Perhaps a bit too rich and ripe, but I think above all hope that the acid is sufficient for further development.
2005 DEUTZ ‘AMOUR de DEUTZ’ | Aÿ | Champagne | France | Deutz | 100CH | RJpoints 90(93)
TASTING NOTE The wine lives on a lovely generosity and also wonderfully delicious easy drinkability. A highly appreciated and popular wine. As usual, I grumble some about the lack of airiness between the various components of the dense 2005.vintage wines Brie de Meaux tone in the fragrance in some bottles.
2000 DEUTZ ‘CUVÉE WILLIAM DEUTZ VINOTHÈQUE’ | Aÿ | Champagne | France | Deutz | 55PN 10PM 35CH | RJpoints 91(94)
TASTING NOTE I’m not quite a grip on how some wines from the hills surrounding Aÿ has become extra powerful, dark and concentrated monumental one usually fairly easy and tutti frutti scented soft year. Clos des Goisses and even clearer in this wine ,illustrates what I mean. Wonderful! Unfortunately, some oxidation tons the last times.
1975 DEUTZ ‘BLANC DE NOIRS d’AŸ VINOTHÈQUE’ | Aÿ | Champagne | France | Deutz | 100PN | RJpoints 99(99)
TASTING NOTE This wine that was too good to be sold and that is only intended for internal use has been made available for me to taste thanks to the generosity of Fabrice Rosset. The recently disgorged magnum is at its best after decanting and is surprisingly light in colour. Fairly soon the most beautiful Pinot aromas start to bombard one’s nose. Distinct layers of satiny-smooth strawberry essence, leather, liquorice, roasted nuts and gunpowder smoke make their appearance with accelerating strength. A masterly wine to follow for many decades in the future.
2008 DEUTZ ‘ROSÉ ‘ | Aÿ | Champagne | France | Deutz | 100PN | RJpoints 89(93)
TASTING NOTE The flowing rich vintage! What balance! What a prodigious Burgundy-like strawberry aroma and wonderfully generous softness!
|15 champagne lovers | 5 champagne | 4 vintages | 75 glasses | 3 dishes|