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bubbles @ taormina 5 augusti 2014

RJ stayed at Hotel Timeo in Taormina and had the following Champagne as an apéritif on the terrace:

1998 TAITTIINGER ’COMTES de CHAMPAGNES’ | Reims | Champagne | France | Taittiinger | 100CH | RJpoints 93495)

 

TASTING NOTE ’Not even the importer knew that the new vintage was on its way when they found a magnum 98 among their bottles. It is clearly a bit wrong to start tasting a new vintage in a magnum since the size of the bottle makes the wine even less ready. So far this is a fresh, lemon-crispy package of mineral without the slightest ”Comtes” maturity. Store!!! All right, not as sharp any longer, some toastiness started to appear during the spring of 2007, and butterscotch plumpness in the spring of 2008.’

 

double apéritif @ café rotsunda 3 augusti 2014

I was invited with Le Phantôme & Diamond Lager to Café Rotsunda for a summer dinner. As usual the night started with some premium bubbles:

1995 DOM PÉRIGNON ‘CUVÉE DOM PÉRIGNON’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | Dom Pérignon | 48PN 52CH | RJpoints 93(94)

TASTING NOTEHere is a soft, charming, sensual, and classic Dom Pérignon. The wine carpets the palate with the softest silky texture you can desire. This supple, complex wine runs down your throat with the greatest ease, trailing a fresh aftertaste. The aromatic palette is the same as usual, with its exotic fruit and breakfasty notes, as well as an unusually strong dash of vanilla that is a distinguishing feature of the vintage.’

Dom Pérignon1

RJ ON DP Dom Pérignon – the name alone makes most of us break out in a delightful smile. When we think of this 17th-century monk from Hautvillers – so often pointed out as the father of Champagne – we either regard him with historical reverence, or associate his name with the proudest of all wine labels and everything else that follows in its glamorous, sparkling wake. Just imagine all the classic movie scenes that have been sweetened by a bottle of Dom Pérignon. Bond movies usually spring to mind. Countless times I’ve sat and sighed over agents with a license to kill: villains and exquisite women in seductively luxurious surroundings, all revelling in icy Dom Pérignon. Most champagne enthusiasts have their favourite scene. Mine is when Scaramanga, the man with the golden gun, shoots the cork off a bottle carried on a tray by his dwarfish servant Nic-Nack, along a now-famous Thai beach. The most comical scene must be when Sean Connery is served a 1957 Dom Pérignon, a vintage that never existed. Brilliant research!

Salon140417_032-2

 

1990 SALON ‘CUVÉE ’S’ de SALON’ | Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger | Champagne | France | Salon | 100CH | RJpoints 93(96)

TASTING NOTE ’Salon demands longer cellaring than any other champagne. The wines do not go through malolactic fermentation and have a razor-sharp acidity in their youth, which carries the wine to unparalleled heights through the years. A mature Salon expresses a gigantically broad aromatic spectrum, and has a Burgundy-like vinosity. The stringency is maintained throughout the wine’s life, and as Salon has almost no dosage, the wine never becomes an exotic charmer like Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, but it is unmatched in terms of class and purity. Salon is only made in exceptionally good years, and in other years the grapes go to make up Delamotte. 

At the age of five this 1990 still tasted like a barrel sample! Spot-on and apply, with chablis like aromas and a magnificent young fruit. Today far more developed and at the same time in a little bit boring phase where aromas of dried hay and malt(!) dominate over finesse and fruit. In magnum the wine feels completely different with a nearly Dom Ruinart-like roasted and broad house style.’

1964 Henriot ’Vinothèque’ 11 juni 2014

2014 is the year for a lot of celebrations – a lot of friends are turning 50 this year. We started to celebrate the Swedish National Day the 6th of June with a grand bottle:

1964 HENRIOT ’VINOTHÈQUE’ | Reims | Champagne | France | price €850 | 60PN 40CH | TASTING NOTE  Absolutely stunning Champagne! One of the most magnificent wine experiences I have been through and probably the most delicious wine I had drunk in the last five years. The balance is outstanding and the nectar equally nougat saturated and the nut roasted fruit essence is lovely. BJ 98(98) 

RJ ON 1964  ★★★★★  This wonderful vintage is often compared with 1966. The 1964s have today, with few excep- tions, a scent of mint chocolate, bergamot oil, freshly baked bread, and a rich toffee as well as a concentrated taste at the peak of their life cycle. If you want to try old champagne, but are not willing to take a risk, the 1964 might be the safest bet. The flower-filled prestige champagne Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque made its debut with this vintage that is still the house’s best. Dom Pérignon is another choice this year next to Louis Roederer Cristal, and Heidsieck & Co Monopole Diamant Bleu.

RJ ON HENRIOT Joseph Henriot is one of Champagne’s most powerful men. After having been the boss of Veuve Clicquot for many years, he returned to Henriot in 1994. Today the firm is run by his modest and extremely competent son, Stanislas Henriot. Winemaker is Laurent Fresnet. The Henriot family were established as growers in Champagne by 1640 they started their own Champagne house in 1808. The firm’s strength has always been the high-class vineyards they owned in Côte des Blancs. Today they only own twenty-five hectares of vineyards in Chouilly, Avize, and Épernay. The total proportion of Chardonnay obtained from the firm’s fine contracts with growers is more than 20 percent; it dominates the house-style with its clean, elegant, fresh citrus fruit. The Henriot family has always had strong ties with Charles Heidsieck, and still shares offices and wineries. With Clicquot, on the other hand, they share a cellar. The firm’s biggest export market is Switzerland, where Henriot’s dry, classic, slightly discreet Champagnes are a great success. The firm did well at the Millennium Tasting. Personally, I like these elegant classics more and more. Some of the most drinkable wines in the world has got the Henriot Label. Very close to 5 stars.