It’s on rare occations that one has the possibility to taste a truly masterpiece. Bollinger ‘Vielles Vignes Francaises’ is one of those.
2004 BOLLINGER ‘VIEILLES VIGNES FRANCAISES.’ [100PN ]
Aÿ | Champagne | France | Swedish importer: Arvid Nordquist Vinhandel | price about 600 €
TASTING NOTE It is hopeless to predict when a VVF reaches its peak. There is always a startling concentrated fruit which is most smiling sunny tropical in its youth. I tried my first 2004 vintage together with the generous Danish Brian who put it up against the far more deeply matured 2000 vintage. The concentration is equal and the notes may be a bit more exciting in the somewhat darker 2000 vintage. The honey-finish is the same but with a slightly more tingling youthful acidity in 2004. RJponits 96(97)
RJ OM VVF The vintage wines are among the very best, but the question is whether the rare and fantastic Vieilles Vignes Françaises, made with grapes from non-grafted Pinot vines, can reach even greater heights.
RJ ON BOLLINGER Joseph Bollinger was the German from Würtemberg who founded this ancient house in 1829. The French called him simply “Jacques.” The firm’s large estates in the best Pinot villages were bought by his sons Georges and Joseph, and in 1918 it was time for the next Jacques to take over the property. He became the mayor of Aÿ, but died during the German occupation at the age of forty-seven. The most colorful person in the history of the house is his widow, Lily Bollinger, who kept a watchful eye on every bunch of grapes by cycling through the vineyards regularly. Her rigorous demands for quality still run through the house to this day. Now Bollinger is run by Jérôme Philipon, who control over 144 hectares, providing 70 percent of the grape supply. The winemaker today is Gilles Descôtes. Besides the house’s exceptional vineyards, they also use very expensive vinification methods. All the vintage wines are fermented in small, aged oak barrels and are never filtered. Malolactic fermentation—which would probably take place very late in the process—is not encouraged either. The reserve wines are stored at low pressure in magnums. Bollinger make the heaviest and most full-bodied champagnes of any house, and their wines always have a smoky and hazelnut-y complexity that is very hard to beat. All wines highly recomended.