tasting champagne philipponnat @ egoïste 9 december 2014
We had the pleasure of a visit at the Champagnebar by Richard Juhlin by export manager Antoine de Boysson från Champagne Philipponnat.
PHILIPPONNAT ’ROYALE RÉSERVE NON DOSÉ’ | 65 PN 5 PM 30 CH | Swedish importer: Spring wine & spirits (fd Spedrups Vinhandel) | price 269 SEK | Björnstierne points 85(88)
TASTING NOTE ’Base wine 2010. 40 percent of reserve wines, 8 grams of dosage. No change in the dosage the last 10 years. Disgorgement feb’14. The wine is disgorged after 3,5 years years, but is backed up by 35-40% reserve wines A paradoxical wine in which the pear-scented fruitiness is insanely intensive, like a Billecart Brut in the 80s. At the same time the finish is dry and completely unexpected with its aromatically sweet profile. A stunner in the this crisp style!’
PHILIPPONNAT ’ROYALE RÉSERVE BRUT’ | 65 PN 5 PM 30 CH | Swedish importer: Spring wine & spirits (fd Spedrups Vinhandel) | price 269 SEK | Björnstierne points 82(85)
TASTING NOTE ’Base wine 2010. 40 percent of reserve wines, 8 grams of dosage. No change in the dosage the last 10 years. Disgorgement june’14. The wine is disgorged after 3,5 years years, but is backed up by 35-40% reserve wines which make the generous champagne full-bodied.The nose is dominated by brioche, yeast & butter with fruity aromas like gooseberries and rhubarb, while in the mouth it’s very lively and fresh. Has added komplexity the last 3-4 years.’
PHILIPPONNAT ’ROYALE RÉSERVE ROSÉE BRUT’ | 75 PN 5 PM 20 CH | Swedish importer: Spring wine & spirits (fd Spedrups Vinhandel) | price 316 SEK | Björnstierne points 83(85)
TASTING NOTE ’Base wine 2008. Slightly lesser of reserve wines than in the Royale Reserve. Disgorgement sep’13. 2 vats of still red wine, Pinot Noir, is made in the Clos des Goissses, 7-8 percent is used in this rosé.A champagne in the same fruity style as the non-vintage champagne, with a somewhat more neutral and softer approach. If one is lucky one can find bottles with a Burgundy-like sensation in the middle of the palate. In the best versions the champagne developed notes of smokiness & airdryed ham!’
2006 PHILIPPONNAT ’GRAND BLANC’ | 100 CH | Swedish importer: Spring wine & spirits (fd Spedrups Vinhandel) | price 410 SEK | Björnstierne points 86(88)
TASTING NOTE ’Disgorgement apr’14. 5 grams of dosage. 50% fermenbted in barrels 150% in stainless steel tanks.Delightfully pure, floral, spring nose—like a young Chardonnay (without autolytic character) usually has. When aired, aromas of Brazil nuts (noix du Brésil) appear. Rich, delicious taste with hints of vanilla, biscuits, and pineapple.’
2004 PHILIPPONNAT ’CUVÉE 1522 MILLÉSIMÉE 1ER CRU’ | 70 PN 30CH | Swedish importer: Spring wine & spirits (fd Spedrups Vinhandel) | price 537 SEK | Björnstierne points 88(92)
TASTING NOTE ’Disgorgement sep’12. The name 1522 links with the first time the Pihilipponnats were mentioned in 1522 in tax documentation. A satisfying champagne of the old-fashionedly lovely kind, with a touch of barrel tone. An aroma of gunpowder(!), liquorice, sauna wood, dark chocolate, violtes and vegetables. Full-bodied and beautifully apple-dry with a fine mineral tone. Reminiscent of Jacquesson in style. Aÿ from the Léon location along with Cramant and Le Mesnil and 50% oak barrels.’
2004 PHILIPPONNAT ’CLOS des GOISSES’ | 65 PN 35CH | Swedish importer: Spring wine & spirits (fd Spedrups Vinhandel) | price 1 120 SEK | Björnstierne points 90(94)
TASTING NOTE Dégorgerad nov’13, 8 år sûr-lie. Dosage 4.5grams per litre. Cool year. Difficult to assess in it’s youth with developed tones. Some oxidative fruit and hard dense extracts. Smoky mild beautiful notes and a finish of licorice and fennel, anise seeds. Very polished with classical structure and characterized by Chardonnay that is so typical ’04. Charles Philipponnat thinks that this deep roasted style indicates a long life. Classic Clos des Goisses structure and acidity, with a sweetness of ripe grapes not noted in most Champagnes of this vintage. Will be a fine Clos des Gosses.’
RJ ON PHILIPPONNAT The family has been at Mareuil since 1522 and this domain was established in 1910 by Pierre Philipponnat. In 1935 he bought the jewel in the company’s crown, the 5.5-hectare vineyard, Clos des Goisses. In 1987 Philipponnat became part of the Marie-Brizard group, and at present the domain is included in Bruno Paillard’s block.
They purchase 75 per cent of the grapes from very highly ranked vineyards (97 per cent, on average), with the remaining quarter coming from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Nowadays the firm is run with a purposeful hand by the friendly and unassuming Charles Philipponnat. He manages the excellent grapes in a praiseworthy manner. The wines share his charm and personality. All of them are intensely fruity, with a characteristically youthful tone of gooseberry in the nose. Only the first pressing is used by Philipponnat, since they have Abel Lepitre as their second label. 50% of the vintage wines are fermented in oak nowadays.
Clos des Goisses is consistently one of the world’s foremost wines. They still use a small number of oak barrels, even if certain vintages, like the ’89, are completely vinified in steel tanks. This champagne is a real slow starter that should preferably be decanted if it is going to be drunk before its twentieth birthday. The unique slope beside the canal at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is planted with 70 per cent Pinot Noir and 30 per cent Chardonnay. I recently held a complete vertical tasting of this personal wine. The champagnes were amongst the most ravishing I have tasted. Most impressive was an invaluable magnum from 1955. The 2000 is one of the milestones of the vintage. In certain years a rare – though not very exciting – still red variety is made from the batch. Even rarer, and definitely more exciting, are the 200 bottles of still Chardonnay that Philipponnat makes every year for their own use. In my opinion it is Champagne’s foremost still white wine. The four stars are all totally thanks to Clos des Goisses.