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new house champagne @ the champagnebar by richard juhlin 31 oktober 2014

As the regular champagnebar guest is often frequenting us we change the house Champagne every fortnight. These weeks we focus a little more on this producer. For example, we serve the current cuvée préstige per glass during those weeks. It represented the most famous and influential Champagne houses and the most publicized growers.

2007 HATT et SÖNER ‘GRANDE CUVÉE BRUT’ magnum [100CH]

Bergères-les-Vertus | Champagne | France | Swedish importer: JM Dryckeshandel | SBnr 7696 SBprice 379 sek

TASTING NOTE ‘Grande Cuvée Brut is made from 100% chardonnay from the four southernmost villages of the Côte des Blancs, but especially from Vertus and Bergeres. Only the first pressing. No malolactic fermentation completed, six years on the leece and 6 grams of sugar per liter. Good clean chardonnay character with a certain green apple peel tone that will be rounded towards honey over time.’ RJpoints 74(79)

RJ ON HATT et SÖNER The Champagne brand Francois Vallois is being phased out and will make way for Hatt et Söner. The company SARL Francois Vallois in France has changed its name and now have two names during the decommissioning: Comte de Vallois, Hatt et Söner and will switch to only Hatt et Söner when Francois Vallois is completely phased out. The grapes origins mainly from Bergeres-les-Vertus and Vertus (both 95%), but they also purchases from Oger and Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger which are near by and are 100% grand cru villages. For wine production they use the cooperative in Vertus, but are currently building up their own production capacity. When completed they intend to become a full Négociant Manipulant, ie obtaining domain status.

duelling champagnes @ broms – karlaplan 27 oktober 2014

Yesterday Björnstierne started up the wine club ‘Food & wine by Björnstierne’ @ Broms – karlaplan. The tastinmg was a duell between old time favourites: Pol Roger, Bollinger & Louis Roederer.

Food & Wine

nv POL ROGER ’BRUT RESERVE’ | EPERNAY | 33PN 33PM 34CH | aprox  389 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘I love the entire range of the firm’s products, from the regular non-vintage all the way to the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, and I guarantee you that every sound bottle you drink will impart a life-enhancing experience of pure joy. Some of the best bottles of nonvintage Champagne I have tasted have been well-stored Pol Roger. The ability to age with grace despite its Pinot Meunier content is the wine’s best asset. After a bad patch they are back on track again.’ RJpoints 75(85) 

2000 POL ROGER ’CUVEE WINSTON CHURCHILL’ | EPERNAY | ASSEMBLAGE SECRET | aprox  1 295 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘Not at all exciting when it was released. The tones are here but in an unusually weak form. Will time provide enough evolving to provide the desired push? Oh, yes. Already very worthy of its label. Nice smokey complexity. Fat and already matured.’ RJpoints 94(94)

 

nv LOUIS ROEDERER ’BRUT PREMIER’ | REIMS | 62PN 8PM 30CH   | aprox  399 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘Up to 20 percent of the oak-aged reserve wine is used in the nonvintage Champagne Brut Premier. Roederer has no set recipe regarding malolactic fermentation the personal qualities of the wine differ from case to case. Roederer is without doubt a brilliant Champagne house with an exceptional portfolio of wines. The nonvintage Champagne is brilliant. Invariably praised, nonvintage Champagne with a high proportion of reserve wines that had been stored in big oak barrels. Four years in the bottle before disgorging only the first pressing is used. For several years, an appley, storable, and decently good nonvintage Champagne. Today, a Cristal-like Champagne with outstanding finesse. Fantastic in magnum.’ RJpoints 83(91)

2006 LOUIS ROEDERER ’CRISTAL’ | REIMS | 60PN 40CH   | aprox  399 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘I quake at the thought of how much Cristal is going to be stolen from the cradle at nightclubs and fashionable restaurants in the rich parts of the world. But this version is just fantastic from the start. A colossal power and beautiful rumbling pinot maturity. It’s like chewing on the ripest grapes from Aÿ and Verzenay. At the same time ultra stylish down all the unmistakable cristal essence, peach and mango sweetness, pineapple coconut, vanilla and unreal sprightly acidity and citrus flowery. Many similarities with 2002, but with a clearer pinot touch.’ RJpoints 95(97)

nv BOLLINGER ’SPECIAL CUVEE ’ | AŸ | 60PN 15PM 25CH   | aprox  439 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘Yet again, one of my absolute favorites among nonvintage Champagnes. Since the beginning of the 1990s the wine has only been four years old when it enters the market and is vinified in steel vats. Even so, it’s fascinating to see how much 12 percent old reserve wines, vinified in oak barrels and stored in magnums, do to lift the product. The oakish, smoky, and deep Bollinger style develops after a couple of years in the bottle.’ RJpoints 81(89)

2004 BOLLINGER ’LA GRANDE ANNEE’ | AŸ | 60PN 40CH   | aprox  899 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘Richer and greater than I had expected. The oak maybe a little too obvious, but in the process of integration. Nice fresh fruitiness, delicious unobtrusive vanilla tones and a crisp minerality that in the current situation overshadows the mushroom tones.’ RJpoints 93(94)

tasting @ the champagnebar by richard juhlin 26 oktober 2014

For the members in The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club we set up at monthly tasting. The theme this time was ‘odd auction bottles’. The bottles has been purchased at Swedish Champagne auctions the last three years.

IMG_0921

2004 DIEBOLT-VALLOIS ’FLEUR de PASSION’ | Cramant | 100CH  | aprox  1 000 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE  ‘A new super-wine is born. Jacques Diebolt has put his heart and soul into the 3,000 bottles that are sold under this label. The philosophy is to copy earlier generation’s methods of craftsmanship: only the oldest vines, no malolactic fermentation, storage and fermentation in small oak barrels, lengthy maturation in the bottle. The result is astonishing. Young and graceful with chiselled elegance and floral beauty. SoYoung and graceful with chiselled elegance and floral beauty. Some oakiness starting to emerge. Suddenly grand and a year later stony and mineral salty. RJpoints 93(94)

Deutz99

1999 DEUTZ ’CUVEE WILLIAM DEUTZ’  | Aÿ | 55PN 10PM 35CH  | aprox  1 500 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ‘William Deutz is a Champagne that impresses me more and more. It is early days still in the life of this young wine. The fruity loveliness and complexity in this closed bud of beauty are however quite unmistakeable. Yet another magnificent William with which to gild the future.’ RJpoints 90(94)

Deutz98

1998 DEUTZ ’CUVEE WILLIAM DEUTZ’ | Aÿ | 55PN 10PM 35CH  | aprox  1 500 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ’A bit mean and apple-tinged up to now. The almost earthy stoniness of this vintage is not something that contributes to giving the wine charm, either. It will certainly improve well and truly, but it is hardly likely to be one of the great Williams, is it? The sudden strawberry maturity in the finish makes me ask the question.’ RJpoints 93(93)

1999 DEUTZ ’CUVEE WILLIAM DEUTZ ROSE’

1999 DEUTZ ’CUVEE WILLIAM DEUTZ ROSE’ | Aÿ | 55PN 25CH  | aprox  1 500 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ’Yet another magical edition of this wine. Please do not drink it yet. Of course the wine is seductively delicious with its focused strawberry essence, but the layers will split up and they have the potential for becoming even more subtle and captivating with time. Be patient!’ RJpoints 92(94)

1992 VILMART ’CUVEE CREATION’

1992 VILMART ’CUVEE CREATION’ | RILLY-LA-MONTAGNE | 60PN 40CH  | aprox  900 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ’Vilmart has quickly established cult status, only topped among growers by J. Selosse. A transparent bottle, small barrels, but younger vines. Surprisingly oxidative and miles from Couer de Cuvée from this vintage. A rich, rustic flavour of honey, toffee, leather and fallen fruit.’ BJpoints 90(90) 

1998 VILMART ’CUVEE CREATION’

1998 VILMART ’CUVEE CREATION’ | RILLY-LA-MONTAGNE | 60PN 40CH  | aprox  900 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ’Reminiscent of 1980 Noble Cuvée at the same age. Exactly the same aroma of meringue, sabayone and Brie. Creamy-sweet fruitiness with an element of vanilla. Not at all as compact or barrel-influenced as the Coeur de Cuvée.’ BJpoints 88(88)

1990 JACQUESSON ’CUVEE EMPEREUR NAPOLEON NON DOSE’

1990 JACQUESSON ’CUVEE EMPEREUR NAPOLEON NON DOSE’ | DIZY | 54PN 46CH  | aprox  4 500 SEK magnum |  TASTINGNOTE ’A highly successful Champagne, where finesse and richness go hand in hand in excellent fashion. Hazelnut, white chocolate, honey, licorice, and a hint of oak are found in this refreshing and clearly youthful taste. Brilliant winemaking!’ RJpoints 94(95) 

1990 JACQUESSON ’AVIZE  BLANCS de BLANCS’

1990 JACQUESSON ’AVIZE  BLANCS de BLANCS’ | DIZY | 54PN 46CH  | aprox  2 000 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ’Their first vintage Blanc de Blancs was released in October 1994, replacing the much-praised nonvintage version with a lot of fuss and bother. I don’t know if this remarkable vintage was the reason for the huge jump in quality, but it is clear that this is a much broader and richer Champagne. The mousse melts in the mouth like the finest caviar, the nose is rich in bread aromas and Granny Smith apples, the flavor is soft and harmonious with a long, buttery, burgundy-like aftertaste.  Ah, they are just so clever at Jacquesson’s! I am greatly charmed by this wine since the dryness, sometimes exaggerated, is bridged over by the buttery, rich, exotic fruitiness of the vintage. Very typical of the vineyard.’ RJpoints 94(95) 

1989 HENRIOT ’CUVEE DES ENCHANTELUER’

1989 HENRIOT ’CUVEE DES ENCHANTELUER’ | REIMS | 45PN 55CH  | aprox  2 500 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ’The firm’s new cuvée de prestige is identical to Cuvée Baccarat. Tasted newly disgorged before the wine had gone onto the market. That’s why it was not so strange to detect a slightly restrained, unevolved characteristic about this—in all other ways—classic, house-typical Champagne. Vanilla, peach, lemon, rolls, bread, and mineral clothed in a fat, balanced exterior. Beautiful and developable. Highly reminiscent of Henriot’s delightful ’76s.’ RJpoints 94(94) 

Bourdaire-Gallois @ the champagnebar by Richard Juhlin 25 oktober 2014

On the 22nd of October we got a visit in The Champagnebar by Richard Juhlin by our friend David Bourdaire of Champagne Bourdaire-Gallois in Pouillon.

Bourdaire-Gallois

BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘CUVÉE DÉCORÉE BRUT RÉSERVE’  | 100PM  |  TASTING NOTE ‘Base wine 2010, 2,5 gr/dosage. Nice deep toasted style reminiscent of mature  non-vintage champagne from the big houses. Neat to cope with Meunier maturity without rushing away and becomes flat’. RJ77(80)

Bourdaire-Gallois

BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘BRUT CUVÉE SYMPHONIE PRÉSTIGE’  | 40PN 40PM 20CH  |  TASTING NOTE ‘Base wine 2009, non dosé.The firm’s best wine so far Since I learned that these wines should always be decanted, I was spared the somewhat numb phase that sometimes can appear. Rich nutty and serious gastronomic from the start with a Vve Clicquot similar heaviness and underlying bready and honey saturated foundation.’ RJ82(88)

Bourdaire-Gallois

BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘BLANC de BLANCS’  | 100CH  |  TASTING NOTE ‘Base wine 2009 50% VAT 50% 20 year old 20 hectoliter Oak barrels from Alsace, 5gram/dosage. Decanted. Too young even after decanting. Clean nice citrus and very dry. Feels a bit too acidic before it is matured. More fudge in the carafe several hours later.’ RJ73(75)

Bourdaire-Gallois

2004 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘CUVÉE MILLÉSIME’  | 34PN 33PM 33CH  |  TASTING NOTE ‘Partly 7 year old barrels from Bourgogne for the Pinot Meunier & Chardonnay,  stainless steel vats for Pinot Noir, non-dosage. David believes that it is important that the style should always be maintaned, but the vintage should be obvious. Partly from oak barrels, 6 year old Bourgognefat Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, stainlesssteel vats for Pinot Noir, non-dosage. Nice toasted and nutty with layers of dried fruit and taste of chocolate although the wine is bonedry.’

Bourdaire-Gallois

BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘ROSÉ’ | 100PM  |  TASTING NOTE ‘2011-base, 21 percent still Pinot Meunier,  dosage 5gr/litre, long macerrering 12-16 days, no filtration. Nutty cherry notes dominates the rich but yet strict nose at the moment. A harmonious rosé with a slight tannic touch to the finish. A gastronomic champagne rosé. I would love to serve this with a small quail with a raspberry jus.’

Bourdaire-Gallois

TASTING à la VOLÉE

2010 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘TRADITION DÉGORGEMANT TARDIF’ | 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Degorgerad ala volée. Förstås oförlöst och knastertorr. Fin kritig och sandig mineralitet. Klarhet, stringens och bra attack. Dock större harmoni med socker.’ RJ66(77)

2009 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘TRADITION DÉGORGEMANT TARDIF’ | 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage.  Väldigt stram upplevelse.  Svårt år som präglades mycket av hagel, stor koncentration och aningen forcerad mognad. Helt annorlunda årgångsprofil än 2010 med större uttryck och rikare, rundare karaktär. Klart släktskap med 89:or med sina toner av rågbröd, lakrits, mörk sirap trots att det inte finns en gnutta socker. Rik, men lite överlastad årgång.’ RJ72(76)

2008 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘TRADITION DÉGORGEMANT TARDIF’| 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Ett knippe av energi, Davide vill komma tillbaka om 20 år men det funkar ju inte ur ett kommersiellt perspektiv. Redan vackert och förföriskt ed den omisskännliga ”smultronmarrängen”. Massa syra under ytan inbäddat i fluffig, gräddig struktur och osviklig klass.’ RJ79(86)

2006 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘TRADITION DÉGORGEMANT TARDIF’| 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Jobbigt år med hagelstormar i juli. Årgångstypisk och lite yvig. Fullmatad och en smula vild och yvig med maltiga och äppelskalstoner. Tiden kan ge harmoni. Doften lite väl animalisk och buljongmättad idag.’ RJ71(78)

2005 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘TRADITION DÉGORGEMANT TARDIF’| 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage.tropisk hetta, Här början man skönja en viss komplexitet. Som vanligt var många provare i vår champagneklubb mycket mer imponerad av denna årgång än undertecknad. Visst finns drag av kokos och en söt exotism, men jag finner doften vulgär och platt med smaken visar bättre harmoni i en mjuk tät, men aningen tråkig stil.’ RJ63(65)

2004 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘TRADITION DÉGORGEMANT TARDIF’ | 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Elegant, polerat och lite blygt, Sensationell utveckling som inte alls var som jag förväntat mig. Förvisso lite tunn och redan klar, men oj så vackra oväntade blommiga toner. Är detta Pinot Meunier? Akasia, lindblom och klar havtorn och passionsfrukt i mellansmaken. Läckert och snyggt förmodligen under ett kort tidsfönster.’ RJ83(83)

2003 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘TRADITION DÉGORGEMANT TARDIF’ | 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Forcerad mognadsgrad, utvecklad näbb som dra mot oxiderade & kanderade äpplen men inte p den positiva sidan.Redan i doften finns ett drag av aningen för hög alkohol och söta, karamelldrag. I smaken upplever jag en stor mognadsgard, men tack och lov finns det en finstämd fräschör i detta vin.Sticker ut som en sårad tumme i Davids vertikalprovning. Mörkare och djupare på alla sätt. Förstås lägre syra, lite klumpigare, mer torkad frukt och Alsaceliknande aromatik. Ändå tror jag att fikontonerna och apelsindraget bär vidare vinet in i ett långt liv och nydegorgerade flaskor kan ge sensationer åt Davids barnbarn långt in i framtiden.’ RJ75(83)

2002 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘TRADITION DÉGORGEMANT TARDIF’| 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. På doften startar vinet som en finstämd rostad BdB?! DELAMOTTE MED ÅLDER! Fin struktur. Som en gammal Veuve Clicquot 1996 eller 1988. Perfekt uppvisning i vad lång tid i kontakt med jästfällningen kan göra åt högklassig Meunier. Doftar som en Clicquot från 96. Kraftig krutröksdoft om än något endimensionell. Rik, djup rostad, rökig, mineralosande och samtidigt tydligt citrussyrlig smak. Perfekt i dag.’ RJ86(86)

2005 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘ROSÈ’  | 100PM |  TASTING NOTE’ P ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Något bättre harmoni i roséform än som vit. Med bra rondör och visst bett.’ RJ64(67)

2007 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘ROSÈ’  | 100PM |  TASTING NOTE’ P TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Tämligen ointressant vin åtminstone som nydegorgerat med för mycket tutti-frutti, skumgodis och enkla aromer till en tämligen enkel och slapp ryggrad.’ RJ56(61)

2009 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘ROSÈ’  | 100PM |  TASTING NOTE’ PM 20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Opulent och snygg jordgubbsfrutkt. OM jordgubbsyoghurt smakar så här så tar jag den till fruktost varje morgon! Rund fin hallondoft med lite bourgognelik överton. Viss utvecklingspotential, men lever mest på fruktig rondör.’ RJ63(67)

2011 BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS ‘Pinot Meunier Rosé’ | 100PM |  TASTING NOTE ’20 percent of reserve-wine, non-dosage. Kryddig start, blir aningen mer syltig efter ett tag. Det finns en definierad värme i denna årgång som jag inte riktigt vet vad jag tycke rom ännu.

Excentriskt och väldigt unikt i stil. Sällan tidigare har jag så tydligt smakat ett vin med så mycket, stendamm, tavelkrita och sandiga tanniner som detta. Frukten lyser fint med rödbeta och jordgubb så här är något jag verkligen uppmanar er att prova. Kanske mer spännande än sanslöst gott.’ RJ77(82)

 

RJ OM BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS David Bourdaire is a very dedicated and charismatic grower who seems determined to put Pouillon on the map. He disposes 4.6 hectares and exports 15 percent of the production. To some of his more interesting products he uses small oak barrels which brings an exciting nutty heaviness to the wines.

gosset @ mfw 20 oktober 2014

Björnstierne was invited by the new importer of Gosset, Espumante, to a tasting @ Magnusson Fine Wine.  Gosset mv GOSSET ‘BRUT EXCELLENCE’  | 45PN 13PM 32CH  | aprox  299 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE Less mighty and concentrated than the Grande Réserve, but more enjoyable in large amounts. The wine is rich in Pinot fruit and chocolate aromas. The dosage is unnecessarily high in both of Gosset’s nonvintage Champagnes.’  RJpoints 76(83

Gosset

mv GOSSET ‘GRANDE RÉSERVE’  | 44PN 10PM 46CH  | SBnr 87661  | 399 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ‘A plump, oily champagne with tons of ripe apples and a fleshy Pinot flavour. It is only in the finish which is rich in mineral that one can detect the Chardonnay grapes. A wonderfully opulent standard champagne and always one of the best. With aging it gets filld with sweet almond and nutty aromas.’  RJpoints 84(90)

Gosset

mv GOSSET ‘GRANDE BLANC de BLANCS’  | 100CH  | SBnr 77477  | 549 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ‘A wine I had never spotted in a blind tasting. There is nothing of the oxidative style that usually characterize Gosset. The wine is grande, austere and somewhat ascetic. The class turns out, however gently in the glass. Super Young!’  RJpoints 78(85)

Gosset

2004 GOSSET ‘GRANDE MILLÉSIME’  | 44PN 56CH  | SBnr 82190  | 599 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ‘Crispy and scratchy while recently disgorged but a classic broad Gosset with all the rich dominated apple notes and that will be so enjoyable over time.’  RJpoints 84(92)

Gosset

2002 GOSSET ‘CELEBRIS EXTRA BRUT’  | 36PN 65CH  | 999 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ‘A giant that has not reached full harmony yet. Fairly dry, rustic yet serious. Can be really big!’  RJpoints 86(91)

Gosset

1998 GOSSET ‘CELEBRIS EXTRA BRUT’  | 36PN 65CH  | 999 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ‘All winemakers strive for equilibrium in one way or another. Gosset, with their oxidative, opulent style, must battle to achieve equilibrium by having a high level of acid and low dosage. In this case they have chosen to make an Extra Brut, which is a choice that I would not have made. I think that a slightly higher dosage would have made the wine rather more pleasing to the public and more harmonious from the start as well as protecting it against future oxidation. There is a great deal to indicate that its maturity will reach a slender peak, which one will have to aim at in order to be completely satisfied. This wine is otherwise clear and beautifully golden with lively mousse and a pompous Aÿ-Pinot aroma of an animal and red fruit type. Full-bodied and quite divorced from its actual grape composition at present. A short, dry finish on an otherwise lovely taste trip in the country of Aÿ.’  RJpoints 88(88)

Gosset

mv GOSSET ‘GRANDE ROSÉ’  | 44PN 56CH  | SBnr 7405 | 499 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ‘Big and powerful like all of Gossets wines. Somewhat rustic and one-dimensional with aromas that mark it as a grower produced wine. The bouquet evokes thoughts of red apple peelings and plums. The sensation is very round and compact to the palate. Sometimes to malic.’  RJpoints 88(92 2007 GOSSET ‘CELEBRIS ROSÉ’  | 39PN 61CH  | SBnr 7405 | 499 SEK |  TASTINGNOTE ‘Big and powerful like all of Gossets wines. Somewhat rustic and one-dimensional with aromas that mark it as a grower produced wine. The bouquet evokes thoughts of red apple peelings and plums. The sensation is very round and compact to the palate. Sometimes to malic.’  RJpoints 92(93) RJ ON GOSSET Ruinart might be the oldest Champagne-producing firm, but Gosset made still wines much earlier. Pierre Gosset sold his “vin d’Aÿ” as a négociant as early as 1584. Today the family owns twelve hectares in the villages of Aÿ, Bouzy, Mareuil, and Rilly, all stocked up with Pinot Noir. This is only enough for 20 per cent of their needs, but the character of the villages is clearly apparent in their vintage wines. Gosset is one of the true traditionalists of the region, with labelling and disgorging being done manually. They also use old oak barrels in which they store their vintage wines for a brief period of time, thus imparting just a hint of oak character to the wine. The wines are always full-bodied and rich, with a great element of Aÿ Pinot and high-class Chardonnay. The winemaker is the ingenious Jean-Pierre Mareignier. In 1994, after more than 400 years of family ownership, Gosset was sold to the family group Renaud-Cointreau, which owns Cognac Pierre Frapin Grande Champagne. As Gosset is known and appreciated by initiated wine-lovers the world over, they can increase their international presence while still keeping their high quality. The distinctive cuvées are served at the finest restaurants. The vintage wines are especially enjoyable with the ethereal ’52 as a milestone—it won third prize at the Millennium Tasting! One of the absolute foremost domains in the Champagne region. The Célebris Blanc de Blancs is an utterly marvellous wine that turns ones thoughts to Krug Clos du Mesnil in combination with Charles Heidsieck and of course the finer vintages from Gosset. They have chosen to make this magical wine non-vintage with a great proportion of reserve wines and long storage leading to an almost perfect maturity at release. The wine has a powerful volume and simultaneously equilibristic delicacy. Sweet pineapple, orange, apricot and honey with a nutty base to the taste and freezia, hawthorn and almond in the aroma. Brilliant!

news in the champagne database 10 oktober 2014

It’s not often that revolutionary news appears in my champagne database. Today, however, I have put in quite sensational updates and changes of grape relations for old vintages of Moët & Chandon Vintages and their Vintage Rosés. Unfortunately, the situation is in this way that I often pounded my head bloody over the years in my quest for accurate grape relations. Often, the houses themselves do not have the correct relations and too often I have received conflicting information from different people at the same house.

Benoit Gouez at Moët & Chandon belongs to the small group who really cares about this. He has been, since he took got in charge researched old archives and just this week he found a list of the blends down to the beginning of the 1900s. Read and marvel.