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Champagnelunch with A. R. Lenoble in Sthlm 30 juni 2014

Anne Malassagne from A.R. Lenoble invited Champagne Club for a lunch at Brasserie Bobonne in Stockholm to taste their Champagnes.

RJ ON A:R: LENOBLE Lenoble was established in 1920 by Armand-Raphaël Graser, but the domain was destroyed during the First World War. Leon de Tassigny from Jacquesson organised some buildings in Damery for his friend A-R Lenoble. At present the firm is run by Anne Malassagne, who controls eighteen hectares at Chouilly and Bisseuil. Winemaker is Antoine MalassagneFifty percent of their grapes are purchased. The proportion of oak barrels used is increasing every year. The 1999 Gentilhomme is brilliant as usual with profound nuttiness and lovely orange-dominated fruit aromas with flowery overtones. A fine personal spiciness lying in wait under the surface. The 96 is even better and the most recent vintages are super exiting in their oaky way.

A.R. Lenoble

nv A. R Lenoble ’Brut Nature – Zero Dosage’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 309 sek| 30PN 30PM 30CH | RJpoints 68(73)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie and 0 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from the 1cru Bisseuil & the Pinot Muenier from Dammery. Grapes from Damery, Bisseuil and Chouilly vinified using 10% oak barrel and without sugar. Fairly delicate and mellower than expected. The aromas stretch from apples to pineapple and roses.

A.R. Lenoble C.I.

nv A. R Lenoble ’Cuvée Intense’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 329 sek | 30PN 30PM 30CH | RJpoints 75(79)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie and 5 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from the 1cru Bisseuil & the Pinot Muenier from Dammery. Pinot Noir from Bisseuil, Meunier from Damery and Chardonnay from Chouilly vinified using 10% oak barrel with seven grammes of sugar and three years in contact with the yeast. Rich in flavour and interestingly spicy with a long, pure Granny Smith finish.

A.R. Lenoble BdB

nv A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 349 sek100CH | RJpoints 67(73)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2009. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 5 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly. Grapes from Chouilly alone. An exciting and remarkable nose of candlewax and medicine, and an interesting personal flavour of flint stone.

A.R. Lenoble BdB08

2008 A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 409 sek100CH | RJpoints 80(83)

TASTING NOTE Pre-release. 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly. Again, I am a little bit disappointed with this fairly rich wine. Not nearly as village-typical despite all of the serious appearance. It lacks creaminess and minerality. The richness is there as a small consolation.

A.R. Lenoble BdB06

2006 A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 409 sek100CH | RJpoints 77(83)

TASTING NOTE Pre-release. 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly. Ambitious, well-made wine with intensity and a origin form good parcels. However, I am not nearly as impressed as I am when it comes to the house’s equivalent Blanc de Noirs. The Wine is a bit too rustic and characterized by straw and malt tones.

A.R. Lenoble Terroirs Rosé

nv A. R Lenoble ’Rosé Terroirs’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 359 sek 10PM 90CH | RJpoints 59(61)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Grand cru Chouilly (90%) & the Pinot Meunier comes from 1er cru Bisseuil (10%). Rich and full-blooded with a far more Pinot-influenced style than the grape content suggests. The aftertaste is spicy. Sorry to say we are seldom impressed by rosé champagnes from chardonnay-focused growers & houses.

A.R. Lenoble

2009 A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs ’| Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 409 sek100PN | RJpoints 86(89)

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The PInot Noir comes from 1er cru Bisseuil. Wow! Cool! Here we go again. Not quite as large as the sensational 2006, but the same flavor spectrum and modern dense fruit.

 

2006 A. R Lenoble ’Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs ’| Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 479 sek | 100PN | RJpoints 90(91)

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The PInot Noir comes from 1er cru Bisseuil. Wow! What a sensation. Solid oak-influenced bio-oriented grower style with features of Egly and Selosse. One of the biggest surprises in recently. Massive and impressive throughout.

A.R.Lenoble

2006 A. R Lenoble ’Gentilhomme’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 599 sek | 100CH | RJpoints 84(90)

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Grand cru Chouilly. Production only 3 – 4 000 bottle per year. Cool and extremely personal wine that radiates less polished than before, but with more sting and raw impressions. IN good years: a stylish Blanc de Blancs from Côte des Blancs. 

A.R. Lenoble

mv A. R Lenoble ’Les Aventures’ | Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 699 sek | 100PN | RJpoints 92(94)

TASTING NOTE 4 years sûr-lie in stainless steeltanks? and 3 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Grand cru Chouilly. Production only 2 000 bottle per year. The lieux-dits ’Les Aventures’ covers 0,5 hectares. A new cuvée de prestige of the best available that has been given a dose of 30% oak barrel. The grapes used to from the three fine years (like 1990, 1995 and 1996) This version is a blend of equal parts of the vintages ’02 & ’06. . I have heard such a lot of good things about this wine that I was slightly disappointed. I have the feeling that it is fantastically modern and oaky in tune with the times. And what will happen with storage? Worth trying at all events.

 

A.R. Lenoble Zero Dosage

nv A. R Lenoble ’Riche Demi-Sec’| Chouilly | Champagne | Frankrike | importör: KajsaWines | price: aprox 309 sek | 30PN 30PM 30CH | RJpoints 60(60)

TASTING NOTE Basewine 2010. 30% réserve wine. 3 years sûr-lie and 32 grams of dosage. The Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and the Pinot Noir from the 1cru Bisseuil & the Pinot Muenier from Dammery.

FINE Champagne’s ’Best Champagnes for 2014’ 28 juni 2014

The yearly result of FINE CHAMPAGNE MAGAZINE’s annual classification of ’100 Best Champagnes’ has been published. In 2010 the title was given to Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV, 2011 to Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002, 2012 to Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000, 2013 to Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2000.

In 2014, for the first time in this classification’s history FINE CHAMPAGNE MAGAZINE vote went to a rosé champagne, the magnificent Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002. This year FINE CHAMPAGNE MAGAZINE also awarded three honorary awards for mature Library Vintages, exceeding 15 years of age. FINE CHAMPAGNE MAGAZINE’s TOP 3 Library Vintages were Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1996, Laurent-Perrier Les Réserves Grand Siècle Magnum NV and Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995. Why don’t You compare the results with Champagne Clubs list from The Juhlin tasting 2014. The major difference is that our tasting is based upon the 100 best cuvée préstige from the top 50 growers and the top 50 houses. And only champagne that are available on the market at the moment. Read about our top-ranking here.  In our tasting there were no rosés or single vineyard champagnes. Only Cuvée préstige …

 Fine Champagne magazine 12

TOP 10 Champagnes for 2014

1                Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002

2                Dom Pérignon 2004

3                Louis Roederer Cristal 2002

4                Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve NV

5                Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002

6                Henriot Rosé Millésime 2005

7                Krug Grande Cuvée NV

8                Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2000

9                Krug Vintage Brut 2000

10             Pol Roger Vintage 2002

Library Vintages Honorary Awards 2014

1                Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1996

2                Laurent-Perrier Les Réserves de Grand Siècle Magnum NV

3                Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995

 

the Juhlin tasting 2014 – the 100 best cuvée préstige champagnes of the world 24 juni 2014

Champagne expert Richard Juhlin hosted the greatest tasting of the Cuvée Prestige Champagnes ever arranged – ’The Juhlin Tasting 2014’. 2012 the theme was Blanc de Blancs & 2013 it was time for the world’s 100 best rosé champagnes. 50 of the best grower champagnes and the 50 absolute best houses were tasted blindly. The jury was set up by eight highly skilled members of the Champagne Club. Amongst them our champagne writer, champagne blogger, champagne lover  & sommelier Björnstierne Antonson.

Champagne Club

THE RICHARD JUHLIN TASTING LIBRARY  is the world’s largest independent member database of tasted and rated Champagnes. Richard Juhlin is continuously cataloging all sampled Champagnes in real time, which gives you a great treasure to explore! Nowadays, the database contains more than 8700 unique tasting notes.

Richard Juhlin are continually and promptly adding tasting notes, and other relevant facts, on all tasted Champagnes. Everything is included and can be methodically and efficiently searched for specific information, or just a quiet read, enjoy and be inspired by Juhlin texts.

Each ’tasting note’ contains information about a specific Champagne. From the producer and in which village the producer is located, vintage, when it is tested, the composition of grapes, which point Richard Juhlin has given the Champagne during the test, and the wine’s maximum potential future credit for optimum storage. Of course, also included Juhlins uniquely personal description of a wine.

To get access to the tasting notes of Richard Juhlin You need to be a member in Champagne Club.

WHY BECOME A MEMBER?

The primary purpose of the champagne club is to be a serious global source of freshly updated information about the world of champagne. A membership will give you unlimited access to the unique Richard Juhlin Tasting Library, functioning as your informational hub. Here you can read about, and search among, over 8 000 different champagnes, including Mr Juhlin´s tasting notes and the grades he has awarded each wine, both for current and potential character. On the same day that he has tasted a new champagne, you, as a member, can go in and read about the wine in question. If you have doubts when purchasing, or want to know how the bottles in your own wine cellar are progressing, you can stay au jour with notes on the development of thousands of champagnes over time.

Because Mr Juhlin deals with so much more than just sparkling wines, you will also get a chance to read about other wines, restaurants and gastronomic experiences that appeal to his nose and palette. Through the club you will also find it easier to take part in some of the tours that are organized, as well as have the chance to meet kindred spirits either on the Internet or at tastings and other events that are continually arranged.

 

korkar på parad

CUVÉE PRÉSTIGE CHAMPAGNE Prestige Champagnes are usually the firms most expensive wines and should be the essence of the very best the producers can perform. Prestige Champagnes is almost always the wines that each firm considers to be their ”top of the line”, but no law in the world can prevent them from package a simple standard Champagne in a showy bottle and then shout from the rooftops that this is the house’s crown jewel.

PARTICIPATING PRODUCERS Salon, Krug, Jacques Selosse, Veuve Clicquot, Louis Roederer, Pol Roger, Taittinger, Charles Heidsieck, Ruinart, Perrier-Jouët, Deutz, Dom Pérignon, Claude Cazals, Charles Heidsieck, Piper-Heidsieck, R & L Legras, Bollinger, Laurent-Perrier, Henriot, Pommery, Léclapart, Pierre Peters, de Sousa, Diebolt-Vallois, Deutz, Perrier-Jouët, Guy Charlemagne, Philipponnat, Vilmart, Mumm, Agrapart, Billecart-Salmon, Gosset, Jacquesson & Fils, Joseph Perrier, Duval-Leroy. Gimmonet, Egly-Ouriet, Henri Giraud, Philippe Gonet, Lanson, Bonnaire, J-L Vergnon, Alfred Gratien, R.H. Coutier, Cattier, Paul Bara, de Venoge, Palmer, Dampierre, Michel Genet, Gonet-Medeville, Gosset-Brabant, Lasalle, Tarlant, Drappier, Veuve Fourny, Roger Brun, Henri Abelé, Leclerc-Briant, Mailly, H. Billot, Georges Vessellse, Marguet, Dehours, Paul Déthune, Lamiable, Pascal Doquet, Bourdaire-Gallois, Michel, Gonet, Legras & Haas, Michel Arnould, Chartogne-Taillet, Canard-Duchêne, José Michel, Colin, Ayala, Charles Ellner, Thienot, Ployez-Jacquemart, Michel Turgy, Mandois, Boizel, Roger Coulon, Beaumont de Crayeres, Lenoble, Jacquart, Goutorbe, Launois, Tornay, Loriot, Maillart, André Clouet, Coessens, Nicolas Feuilatte, Roland Champion, Telmont, Nominée-Renard, Gimmonet, Hebrart, Gaston Chicquet, Esterlin, Paul Bara, Bruno Paillard, Jean Milan

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TOPP-TIO by RICHARD JUHLIN

  1. Salon – 2002 Cuvée ‘S’ de Salon  (95) 97
  2. Louis Roederer – 2006 Cristal (95) 96,5
  3. Dom Pérignon – 2004 Cuvée Dom Pérignon (95)96,5
  4. Taittinger – 2005 Comtes de Champagne (95)96,5
  5. Jacques Selosse – mv Substance (96)96
  6. Krug – mv Grande Cuvée (94)95,5
  7. Pol Roger – 2000 Cuvée Sir winston Churchill (94)95,5
  8. Veuve Clicquot – 2004 La Grande Dame (93,5)95
  9. Perrier-Jouët – 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs (93) 95
  10. Piper-Heidsieck – 2002 Rare (93)95

TOP-TIO by THE JURY

  1. Salon – 2002 Cuvée ‘S’ de Salon – 96,285
  2. Krug – mv Grande Cuvée – 96,071
  3. Jacques Selosse –  mv Substance – 96,000
  4. Veuve Clicquot – 2004 La Grande Dame – 95,571
  5. Louis Roederer – 2006 Cristal – 95,285
  6. Pol Roger – 2000 Cuvée Sir winston Churchill – 95,214
  7. Taittinger – 2005 Comtes de Champagne – 95,142
  8. Charles Heidsieck – 1995 Blanc de Millénaires – 95,000
  9. Ruinart – 2002 Dom Ruinart – 94,714
  10. Perrier-Jouët – 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs – 93,857

 

Louis Roederer -’a voyage into the making of brut prémier’ 23 juni 2014

The still wines of Champagnes, vins clairs, very seldom leaves the cellars of Reims. and equally seldom outsiders from the Champagne industry have the opportunity to taste them. Under the guidens of Chef de caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon I had the opportunity to go through rhe parts that ends up in the final blend of Brut Premier. (mer…)

1964 Henriot ’Vinothèque’ 11 juni 2014

2014 is the year for a lot of celebrations – a lot of friends are turning 50 this year. We started to celebrate the Swedish National Day the 6th of June with a grand bottle:

1964 HENRIOT ’VINOTHÈQUE’ | Reims | Champagne | France | price €850 | 60PN 40CH | TASTING NOTE  Absolutely stunning Champagne! One of the most magnificent wine experiences I have been through and probably the most delicious wine I had drunk in the last five years. The balance is outstanding and the nectar equally nougat saturated and the nut roasted fruit essence is lovely. BJ 98(98) 

RJ ON 1964  ★★★★★  This wonderful vintage is often compared with 1966. The 1964s have today, with few excep- tions, a scent of mint chocolate, bergamot oil, freshly baked bread, and a rich toffee as well as a concentrated taste at the peak of their life cycle. If you want to try old champagne, but are not willing to take a risk, the 1964 might be the safest bet. The flower-filled prestige champagne Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque made its debut with this vintage that is still the house’s best. Dom Pérignon is another choice this year next to Louis Roederer Cristal, and Heidsieck & Co Monopole Diamant Bleu.

RJ ON HENRIOT Joseph Henriot is one of Champagne’s most powerful men. After having been the boss of Veuve Clicquot for many years, he returned to Henriot in 1994. Today the firm is run by his modest and extremely competent son, Stanislas Henriot. Winemaker is Laurent Fresnet. The Henriot family were established as growers in Champagne by 1640 they started their own Champagne house in 1808. The firm’s strength has always been the high-class vineyards they owned in Côte des Blancs. Today they only own twenty-five hectares of vineyards in Chouilly, Avize, and Épernay. The total proportion of Chardonnay obtained from the firm’s fine contracts with growers is more than 20 percent; it dominates the house-style with its clean, elegant, fresh citrus fruit. The Henriot family has always had strong ties with Charles Heidsieck, and still shares offices and wineries. With Clicquot, on the other hand, they share a cellar. The firm’s biggest export market is Switzerland, where Henriot’s dry, classic, slightly discreet Champagnes are a great success. The firm did well at the Millennium Tasting. Personally, I like these elegant classics more and more. Some of the most drinkable wines in the world has got the Henriot Label. Very close to 5 stars.

Visit @ Charles Heidsieck – Reims 10 juni 2014

Me (Björnstierne) and my sommelier college ’TheWineBurglar’ flew down to Reims and meet up with the team from Champagne Charles Heidsieck, old time favorites. We we’re treated royaly with a grand vertical of their splendid Champagnes. The tasting was held by the humble and enthusiastic Chef de caves Thierry Roset.

2000 Charles Heidsieck ’Millésime’ won the title ’Best Champagne in the World’ in September 2013 amongst 1000 tasted Champagnes for Fine Champagne Magazine. Charles Heidsieck ’Brut Réserve’ got the title ’Best non-vintage’ in the same publication 2014. 1995 Charles Heidsieck ’Blanc de Millenaire’ won the  International Trophy in DWWA’13 – Decanter World Wine Awards.

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2000 Charles Heidsieck ’Millésime’ | Reims | Champagne | France | price €65 | 60PN 40CH | TASTING NOTE  Enormously voluptuous and classical. Gorgeously nutty, with creamy Chardonnay character and sunnily replete with orange. Yet another fantastic Heidsieck. BJ 90(92) 

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1995 Charles Heidsieck ’Blanc de Millenaires’  | Reims | Champagne | France | price €150 | 100CH | TASTING NOTE  Heidsieck’s new cuvée de prestige is a constant winner at blind tastings all over the world. I’m less impressed by the deep yellow drink with its fine but rather miserly classical nose and buttery Chardonnay flavor. So silky-smooth and with such intensive nut toffee! The toastiness is there, but lying swimming in an oily nectar which prevents it from really making its way forward as it does in many other vintages. Pretty mousse and uplifting charm. BJ 95(95) 

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1990 Charles Heidsieck ’Blanc de Millenaires Vinothèque’  | Reims | Champagne | France | price unknown | 100CH | TASTING NOTE  The foremost vintage so far of this acclaimed prestige Champagne. The scent is clear as a bell with Grand Siècle’s beautiful note of sun-dried, newly laundered sheets, along with more than a dash of famous coffee-roasting house. Clean, focused, lemony-fresh, and sporty taste. A Ferrari of the wine world! BJ 95(96)  

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1985 Charles Heidsieck ’Blanc de Millenaires Vinothèque’  | Reims | Champagne | France | price unknown | 100CH | TASTING NOTE  I must admit that I did not expect this from the beginning a bit over-polished ingratiating wine could reach such amazing heights. Absolutely incredibly tasty giving a languorous euphoria-creating need to flood oneself by drinking this wine in big gulps. BJ 97(97)  

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1985 Charles Heidsieck ’Millésime Vinothèque’  | Reims | Champagne | France | price €200 | 70PN 30CH | TASTING NOTE  A trifle more austere perhaps, but instead somewhat more elegant than the normally disgorged wine. Just as delicious. BJ 92(93)  

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1985 Charles Heidsieck ’Champagne Charlie Vinothèque’ | Reims | Champagne | France | price €250 | 70PN 30CH | TASTING NOTE  Actually very different from the usual Charlie! Perhaps a little less complex but here you will find the unexpected super availability as some 85s suddenly shows. It feels like a vanilla scented candy bag in the style of the gorgeous William Deutz with short aftertaste á la Heidsieck. Extremely volatile plenty! Nowadays one of the most perfectly roasted sshoolbookschampagnes the house has made. BJ 98(98)  

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1983 Charles Heidsieck ’Champagne Charlie Vinothèque’ | Reims | Champagne | France | price €350 | 70PN 30CH | TASTING NOTE  What a fantastic bouquet! Super-elegant, flowery undertone of the finest Chardonnay. Those tones, however, must be content to play second fiddle, because the Dom Pérignon-like coffee-roasting house aroma is so extremely pronounced. This is, for sure, a conscious house-style, and one would have to look far and wide to find something stronger than here in the company’s ’83s. The flavor is slightly smoky, lemony-fresh, and peppery in the finish. One of the vintage’s most distinguished Champagnes. BJ 95(96)  

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1983 Charles Heidsieck ’Millésime Vinothèque’ Reims | Champagne | France | price €290 | 50PN 50CH | TASTING NOTE Newly disgorged direct from the house’s beautiful cellar collection. Fantastically, smokily toasted, grilled and nutty! The fruitiness is not the very best but the mousse trifles prettily with the tongue and the taste explosion of gunpowder smoke on the tongue is sensational. BJ 93(93)  

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1983 Charles Heidsieck ’Blanc de Millenaires Vinothèque’  Reims | Champagne | France | price €300 | 100CH | TASTING NOTE Newly disgorged direct from the house’s beautiful cellar collection. These Oenothèque wines are truly delightful. What vigour and freshness along with the depth and the tones of maturity that are gradually revealed. Exquisitely delicious! This wine is still rather too light and perhaps a trifle too polished, but wonderfully fine and delicious with its sophisticated style. BJ 94(94)  

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1981 Charles Heidsieck ’Blanc de Millenaires Vinothèque’  Reims | Champagne | France | price €300 | 100CH | TASTING NOTE Straw color, sparklingly lively, characteristic vintage-typical hawthorn nose, and slightly unpolished taste. For the moment, completely wonderful, with a nose of mint toffee, mango, vanilla, sweet butter toffee, and acacia honey. Butterscotchy and elegant, with fine fatness and beautiful freshness. Fantastic development. BJ 93(93)  

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1981 Charles Heidsieck ’Champagne Charlie Vinothèque’  Reims | Champagne | France | price €300 | 50PN 50CH | TASTING NOTE The name Champagne Charlie didn’t go down so well in the English-speaking world, so Charles Heidsieck decided to discontinue this lovely Champagne. Juicy, exotic, and well-balanced, with a good grip and long aftertaste of mango. There is still a little more to be won from this sleek wine. Acacia tones skillfully interwoven with deep cellar tones, mineral and toast enchant me at any rate. BJ 96(97)  

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1979 Charles Heidsieck ’Champagne Charlie Vinothèque’  Reims | Champagne | France | price €400 | 50PN 5PM 45CH | TASTING NOTE Newly disgorged direct from the house’s beautiful cellar collection. A very youthful twenty-two-year-old that isn’t at all as expressive as its normally disgorged twin. Intensely sparkling, brilliant young color. Vegetal freshness mixed with fishy notes. A lively wine with good structure and a short aftertaste. Only 1,500 bottles are sold under this label. BJ 93(94)  

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1975 Charles Heidsieck ’Le Royale Vinothèque’  Reims | Champagne | France | price €500 | 50PN 5PM 45CH | TASTING NOTE Light and fine in colour. Not at all oxidative as so many wines from the 70s are. Slenderly built and yet solid in a slightly chilly way. Apart from the lack of length in the aftertaste that is typical of the house, this is a phenomenal wine. Profoundly, beautifully golden, vivacious, creamy, and yes, almost as sluggish as acacia honey, and yet delightfully elegant and refreshing with a purity and a seductive aroma that carries one’s thoughts to orange blossomBJ 96(96)  

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dinner @ maaemo – oslo 9 juni 2014

I took an extra night in Oslo and visited my colleague Pontus Dahlström – sommelier and co-owner of two star-estabishement Maaemo. The dinner was one of the best I’ve experienced in the last 10 years both in Sweden and domestic. Big thanks to sommelier’s finest, Pontus Dahlström & chef par excellence Esben Holmboe Bang!

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DINNER 20TH OF MAY

2007 VEUVE FOURNY ’MILLÉSIME – CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE

Nyr from Gröndalen Farm with vendace roe

Salsify presserved with juniper

’Sandwich’ – with smoked mackerel and herb emulsion

Young salad and elderflower viinaegrette

Biodynamic beet filled with sloe berry

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LUSTAU ’OLOROSO PATA DE GALLINA’ – ANDFLAUCIA, ESPAÑA

’RØMMEGROT’ a porridge of very sour cream with dried reindeer heart

Cornette with chicken liver and pickled chanterelles

Mushroom cream with a savoury Muesli

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2012 SCHÄSTZEL ’KABINETT RIESLING’ – RHEINHESSEN, GERMANY

Emulsion of raw Norwegian oyster from BØMLO with a mussel and dill sause

Langoustine cooked in spruced-infused butter and glazed in rapeseed and last year’s spruce

2011 JO LANDRON ’MUSCADET SÈVRE et MAINE – LE FIEF du BREIL’ – LOIRE, FRANCE

Scallop from FRØYA grilled in its own shell with reduced celeriac juice, celeriac cooked with apple

BØGEDAHL ’HVEDE BRYGD No384’ – JUTLAND, DENMARK

Sourdough bread of freshly milled wheat and spelt served with butter ’churned until almost separated’

Porridge of Buckwheat and spelt with wheat vinegar and cheese from Lofoten

2013 KELLER ’VON der FELS REISLING’ – RHEINHESSEN, GERMANY

Pickled mackerel with grilled asparagus, ramson and elm

2012 GEORGES VERNAY ’LE PIED de SAMSON’ – RHÔNE, FRANCE

2011 CHÂTEAU de BEAUCASTEL ’CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PÂPE BLANC’ – RHÔNE, FRANCE

Fried calf’s tongue and hot cream made from the first egg the hen lays

2008 PERROT-MINNOT ’NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er cru LA RICHEMONE’ – Bourgogne, France

2010 LIGER BELAIR ’VOSNE-ROMANÉE CLOS du CHÄTEAU’ – BOURGOGNE, FRANCE

Duck breast cooked over burning birch wood with spring offerings, mountain blueberries and white currant

MAS AMIEL ’MAURY 15 ANS d’AGE’ – MAURY, FRANCE

Frozen blue cheese from Eggen Fram with pickled black trumpet mushrooms

Sorbet made of the wood from the black currant bush

’HOMEMADE RHUBARB JUICE’

Rhubarb with baked milk, fragrant lavander

1995 CASTELLO MONSANTO ’VINSANTO LA CHIMERA CUVÉE MAAEMO’ – TOSCANA, ITALY

Brown butter ice cream, hazelnut crumble and molasses

POLOTRAK ’JADWIGA (MEAD) – APIS IN LUBLIN, POLAND

Smoked soft ice with dehydrated brown cheese

DUMERSO (mr Sorafi), GEDEO, YIRGACHEFE, ETHIOPIA (picked dec13, rosated by Tim Wendelboe)

’liquid waffle’ with wild mountain tea from BØVERDALEN

Traditional Norwegian pastries

Nyr from GRØNDALEN FARM with sea buckthorn

 

View the rastings of Maaemo @ wbpstars.

Champagne auction in Sthlm 9th of June 4 juni 2014

Stockholms Auktionsverk in collaboration with Systembolaget will host the last champagne auction before the summer break. Below You will find the different lots: