We gathered 20 members @ The Champagne Bar by Richard Juhlin for a tasting of the full range of the champagnes from old time favorite Egly-Ouiret from Ambonnay.
August Strindberg and his bohemic friends discussed politics and poetry all day long in this dining room, which is named from his book, Röda Rummet. The book was published in 1879. Richard & Björnstierne was invited to lunch @ Röda Rummet – Berns Asiatiska by Fabrice Rosset, CEO of Champagne Deutz to taste 5 new releases on the Swedish market.
nv DEUTZ ‘BRUT CLASSIC’ | Aÿ | 38PN 32PM 30CH | SBnr 7487 | 380 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘The Champagne is always of a high quality, but has previously been sold too early. If you put the wine aside for a few years in the cellar, a fine, bready note will develop, which will tone down the exaggerated apple-like fruit. I tasted a couple of bottles at the beginning of 2001 that already had a classic maturity. Very good, exuberant, and complex at the moment. I hope this tendency continues.’ RJpoints 76(84)
1995 DEUTZ ‘MILLIÉSIME VINOTHÈQUE’ | Aÿ | 60PN 10PM 30CH | 1 349 SEK | Swedish allocation 36 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘It feels like Deutz vintage wine has finally found its true self. Classic, irresistible style, without forgetting its past. Everything is in its place in a totally satisfying way. Mature Pinot Noir and sublime, crispy fruit in lovely harmony.’ RJpoints 96(96)
1995 DEUTZ ‘BLANC de BLANCS VINOTHÈQUE’ | 100CH | 1 349 SEK | Swedish allocation 48 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘40% Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger, 50% Avize & 10% Villers Marmery. Fantastic and indeed somewhat oilier than the usual issue. I suppose that the autolytic character will give this wine an amazing base for acceleration a little further on in the future.’ RJpoints 96(96)
2002 DEUTZ ‘CUVÉE WILLIAM DEUTZ’ | 62PN 11PM 27CH | 1 100 SEK | Swedish allocation 360 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘Pinot Noir: 62%, from vineyards in Ay, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Bouzy, Louvois and Ambonnay. Chardonnay: 27%, from vineyards in Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, with a small proportion from the Montagne de Reims. Pinot Meunier: 11% from vineyards in Pierry and Chatillon-sur-Marne. Golden hue with crystal glints. Extremely fine bubbles. Delicate, rich and complex on the nose, developing floral and cooked white peach aromas, underpinned by lovely honey-sweet notes of spice and candied ginger. Well defined and clean on entry. Captivating, rich and full on the palate, the champagne releases a mélange of delicate cherry, wild peach and honey aromas. Its fine, harmonious balance shows promise. The finish is silky, complex and refined, with long lingering aromas.’ RJpoints 90(95)
2007 DEUTZ ‘MILLÉSIME’ | 65PN 5PM 30CH | 499 SEK | Swedish allocation 1 200 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘Pinot Noir: about 65%, from the terroirs of Bouzy, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Verzenay, Aÿ and Ambonnay. Chardonnay: about 30%, from the terroirs of Avize and Villers-Marmery. Pinot Meunier: about 5%, from Binson-et-Orquigny. Soft pleasing vanilla-scented and cacao-orienterad aroma and a soft fruit and bread dominated taste for relatively early consumption.’ RJpoints 82(85)
2009 DEUTZ ‘ROSÉ MILLÉSIME’ | 80PN 10CH | 499SEK | Swedish allocation 360 bottles | TASTINGNOTE ‘The vineyards, or crus, that supply the Pinot Noir are a gage of its qualities: Aÿ, Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ, Bouzy and Verzenay. They epitomise the subtle and yet powerful qualities of the finest pinot noirs in Champagne. The style of this wine and its colour owe a lot to the incorporation into the blend of 8% red wine made by Deutz from a plot of old vines on the hillside at Aÿ – a plot known as « La Pelle » – and other specific plots at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ: « Cumaine » and « Charmont ». Tasted together with the worlds most expensive (!) caviar, the arctic char caviar – Northern Light Spirit at about €25 000 per kilo. The wine felt slightly dryer and and firmer then usual. The nose is very much Aÿ and has great potential, with the slightly heavy charachter of the vintage.’ RJpoints 83(88)
Champagne Deutz also launched a world premier – 2006 DEUTZ ‘AMOUR de DEUTZ ROSÉ’ | 65PN 35CH | aprox 1 500 SEK | TASTINGNOTE ‘Fabrice Rosset has long wanted to profile of William Deutz Rosé from a gastronomically burgundy influenced wine into something sleeker and more modern. Unfortunately, I’m not entirely convinced that the style change was necessary, although I obviously understand and respect the decision. The bottle is incredibly beautiful, cool and elegant as a Greta Garbo in black and white. The purity and minerality sharpness is surgically precise, but the intensity and the fruit is a little too toned down this time. More like a dry Belle Epoque than William Deutz at present.’ RJpoints 86(92)
RJ ON DEUTZ Two Germans, William Deutz and Pierre Gelderman, founded this prestigious firm in 1838 in Ay. Deutz was hit hard during the champagne uprising in 1911. For a long time the house was run by André Lallier, who made large investments in other wine regions. These include properties in the Rhone Valley, Maison Deutz in California and another sparkling wine from the Loire Valley. 1993 Louis Roederer acquired majority of Deutz. Today the firm is run proficiently by the sympathetic Fabrice Rosset. Winemaker Michel Davesne. 75% of the grapes are sourced from Grand- and premier cru plots. Deutz owns land in five villages. The property is among the most beautiful in Champagne and wines are also very distinguished. The style is laid-back, elegant and sophisticated with a medium full body and crystal clear fruit as well as an exemplary mousse. All wines are good, but Cuvée William Deutz Rosé is something special. Even the Vinothèque-wines and the white edition of William Deutz is world class. Deutz has launched an ultra sophisticated prestige champagne under the name Amour de Deutz selling like hotcakes since Madonna took it to heart. One of my real favorites!
The bus took us to Reims again. Some free time at the hotel was nice and som ewanted to be guided around the Cathedral and wine shops by Richard. For the evening we met up Hôtel du Marc for a Winemakers dinner at the wonderful private house of Madame Clicquot especially for our little group.
RJ on VEUVE CLIQUOT In Sweden, no Champagne is as well known as the “Gula Änkan,” the Yellow Widow. The house was founded in 1772 by Philippe Clicquot. His son, François, married Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin, who took over the company at the age of twenty-seven when she found herself a widow. By her side was Comte Edouard Werlé and the firm’s chef de caves, Antoine Müller. Together with Müller she developed “remuage” using “pupitres.” One Heinrich Bohne then helped to take the Russian market by storm. Throughout the nineteenth century and right up to the 1970s, Clicquot was reckoned as one of the top four or five Champagne companies, a position they still are very close to obtain. At first the company merged with Canard-Duchêne, but today it is a part of the powerful Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) group. The 284 hectares owned by Clicquot in twenty-two villages are enough for around three of the almost 18 million bottles produced each year. The most important crus for La Grande Dame and the vintage wine are Ambonnay, Bouzy, Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil, Oger, and Verzenay. Since 1962 modern vinification techniques and stainless-steel tanks have been used. If you find old, well-kept vintages they’ll be very like Bollinger and Krug. Despite the factory scale, the house has managed to keep its Pinot-based classic style, where dough, bread, and pepper are clear elements. Jacques Peters, who is brother to François Peters in Le Mesnil and an equally gifted winemaker, should get the credit for Clicquot’s quality today. The talented new winemaker Dominique Demarville follows smothly in the same tracks. The rich and honeyed La Grande Dame is a wonderful champagne, but the powerfull and nutty vintage wine often gives best value for money. Cave Privée is probably the best bargain on the market. A classic house that is one of the greatest!
The theme for the dinner was 2004. | RJ ON 2004 *** | A mild spring followed by a summer with unstable weather. Fortunately, the first weeks of September were hot and sunny and created good prospects for the harvest. In my opinion, the wines have a good structure with a rather floral bouquet but with a bit rough, stony mineral profile. The charm is missing, and it needs a fairly long storage before the cavities are filled in. Promising favorites that have reached the market include prestige champagnes from Thierry Perrion, Diebolt- Vallois, David Léclapart, and of course Jacques Selosse. Among the big elephants that are launched, I choose Mumm de Cramant, Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame, Dom Pérignon, and Louis Roederer Cristal.
But we started out on the beautiful terrace with a wonederful glass of rosé | nv VEUVE CLICQUOT ‘ROSÉ’ | Reims | Champagne | France | Veuve Clicquot | 50PN 20PM 30CH | RJpoints 84(88)
TASTING NOTE A new rose wine from the old lady made in a modern, somewhat lighter style. A tribute to the added red wine is really feels well integrated and all blue notes are conspicuous by their absence. However, I lack Clicquot customary bready richness in this fairly light creation. Cyril Brun’s latest mint toffee scented titbit is astoundingly great!
2004 VEUVE CLICQUOT ‘RICH RÉSERVE’ | Reims | Champagne | France | Veuve Clicquot | 59PN 8PM 33CH | RJpoints 82(85)
TASTING NOTE Nice together with foie gras, but the sugar is otherwise mostly in the way in this issue where the wine’s body is a little too round to completely fit in a sweet costume.
2004 VEUVE CLICQUOT ‘MILLÉSIME’ | Reims | Champagne | France | Veuve Clicquot | 62PN 8PM 30CH | RJpoints 88(91)
TASTING NOTE Embarking very promising but gets ‘dark’ to quickly in the glass, indicating that it should be enjoyed sooner than many of the greatest wines from the house. Bright and toasty in magnum.
2004 VEUVE CLICQUOT ‘ROSÉ’ | Reims | Champagne | France | Veuve Clicquot | 71PN 9PM 20CH | RJpoints 87(92)
TASTING NOTE Extremely charming from start. Lots of beautiful berry tones however, also stylish animal touch from the start. Unprecedented charm and the balance from the start with stylish features of summer romance.
nv VEUVE CLICQUOT ‘DEMI-SEC’ | Reims | Champagne | France | Veuve Clicquot | 56PN 16PM 28CH | RJpoints 52(67)
TASTING NOTE Precisely as with Roederer, Clicquot has even more bottle maturity in its sweetest wine before sale. A trouser-opener, as the Germans say. Honey, strawberry and toffee, but sickly sweet after a while. A good way to introduce someone to champagne.
AFTER-DINNER BOTTLES SERVED BLIND IN THE BAR | 1952 VEUVE CLICQUOT ‘EXTRA RARE VINTAGE’ magnum | Reims | Champagne | France | Veuve Clicquot | 67PN 33CH | RJpoints 98(98)
TASTING NOTE Absolutely outstandingly good! One of all these carzy magnums that Cyril and Dominique serves me and my VIPgroups instead of coffee at the Hôtel du Marc. Now it was a long time ago I tried the incredible ’55, but we’re on the same level of quality. The scent is more animal and reminds of the truffle-oozing ’61, but the taste is ultra sleek, smooth, toffee and multilayered as a novel by Shakespeare! The best Champagne of the trip?!
1996 VEUVE CLICQUOT ‘LA GRANDE DAME’ | Reims | Champagne | France | Veuve Clicquot | 64PN 36CH | RJpoints 94(96)
TASTING NOTE A surprisingly tranquil, high-octane, elegant La Grande Dame that will probably develop into one of the greatest vintages of this wine ever made. The balance is extraordinary and the wine has a silky appearance, devoid of both sharp edges and an exaggeratedly chocolaty, muscular body. Hints of hazelnut and white chocolate are present, but for the moment handsome fruit and fine mineral notes from Oger and Le Mesnil dominate. A uniquely long aftertaste that should convince doubters that something big is happening here.
|15 champagne lovers | 8 champagnes | 3 vintages | 120 glasses | 4 dishes|
The day after we visited the cellars of Veuve Clicquot (the name Ponsardin has been retired). Cyril Brun set up a Vin Clairs tasting for us:
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs pinot meunier Villedomagne||2013||btl||100PM|
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs pinot noir Verzy||2013||btl||100PN|
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs chardonnay Vertus||2013||btl||100CH|
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs chardonnay Cramant||2012||btl||100CH|
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs pinot noir Verzy||2012||btl||100PN|
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs pinot noir Verzenay||2008||btl||100PN|
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs chardonnay Villiers-Marmery||2008||btl||100CH|
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs Bouzy Rouge||2013||btl||100PN|
|Veuve Clicquot||Vins Clairs Final Blend||2013||btl|
|Veuve Clicquot||La Grande Dame||2004||btl||64PN36CH||RJ 94(96)|
|15 champagne lovers | 1 champagne | 9 vins clairs | 4 vintages | 150 glasses|
We gathered some members from Richard Juhlin Champagne Club this Thursday to taste some mature Vueve Cliquot’s. The Tasting took place @ The Champagne bar by Richard Juhlin in Stockholm.
RJ on EGLY-OURIET This firm was established in 1930 and nowadays Michel Egly owns 7,7 hectares at Ambonnay, a third of a hectare at Bouzy and one and a half a hectare at Verzenay as well as 2 hectares Meunier in Vrigny. The average age of the vines is 35 years, with 60 years for the prestige wines. The wines are phenomenally great and rich. The grower is very close to gaining five stars through his fantastic development in recent years. Probably the foremost grower of Pinot Noir in the entire Champagne region nowadays. His much sought-after Blanc de Noirs Vielles Vignes comes from grapes from Pinot vines grown in 1946. They give this wine extra weight and density. The fruitiness is massive and soft, and the potential for maturation is enormous. He succeeds better and better for each issue. Nowadays this is a Selosse-like, exotic, oaky and biodynamically influenced giant among champagnes. The taste layers are fantastically generous and many-headed. Very close to 5 stars.
nv EGLY-OURIET ‘BRUT TRADITION’ | Ambonnay | Champagne | France | Egly-Ouriet | 70PN 30CH | RJpoints 84(88)
TASTING NOTE A copy of Bollinger’s nonvintage Champagne. Chocolate, hazelnut and ripe apples. A broad, masculine fleshiness and vigor. Better and better with greater depth, elegance and Selosse-like barrel quality and organic style. Avoid the youngest and most recently disgorged specimens of all.