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Var annan vecka byter vi huschampagne @ The Champagne Bar by Richard Juhlin. Denna vecka dyker en ny bekantskap upp!
Since The Champagnebar by Richard Juhlin @ MOOD STHLM is often frequented by our guests and members we change the house champagne every fortnight. These weeks we focus a little more on this producer. For example, we serve the current cuvée préstige by the glass during these weeks. This represented the most famous and influential champagne houses and the most sought after growers.
In the last guide of ‘The 50 Best Restaurants in the World 2014′ at place 98 we find Restaurant Jean-Georges in New York. Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten serves the following house champagne:
BILLECART-SALMON ‘BRUT RÉSERVE’ │MAREUIL-SÛR-AŸ │BILLECART-SALMON│35PN 30PM 35PM │ RJ 75(82)
TASTING NOTE ‘This is the creation of the son, Antoine Billecart. I claim this to be the best nonvintage Champagne of the extremely fruity school. The nose is lively and as fresh as a spring morning, the flavor is light and citrus-fresh with a long, balanced aftertaste of Granny Smith apples. Softer, sweeter, and more creamy recently.’
In the last guide ‘The 50 Best Restaurants in the World 2014’ at place 100 we find Restaurant Jaan in Singapore. Appointed as Krug’s first restaurant Ambassade in Singapore, JAAN’s Chef de Cuisine Julien Royer presents an exclusive menu which complements the fine craftsmanship of Krug’s champagnes. JAAN will also offer the full range of Krug, including some vintage bottles that were previously unavailable in Singapore. See the menu here.
They serve two of our favorite Champagnes by the glass:
Krug ‘Grande Cuvée (03 base) │REIMS │KRUG │50PN 15PM 35PM │ RJ 92(94)
TASTING NOTE ‘Krug’s nonvintage wine costs about $150. They themselves would rather call it a ‘multi-vintage’. Almost every time one I drink Krug Grande Cuvée, some new element is revealed. Because it’s been blended from ten different vintages and forty-seven different wines from twenty-five crus, variation is understandable. However, I have only missed spotting it on one occasion at a blind tasting, proving that its basic character is unique. The extremely tough acidity, together with the heavy, rich Krug aromas, are the foremost clues. Always check how straight the cork is in order to decipher when it was disgorged. When young, the acidity can be too hard. When middle aged and older, the Grand Cuvée has a fabulously complex nose and palate, dominated by nuts and honey. The aftertaste is always long and majestic, like a great symphony. The best bottles deserve even higher points than I’ve given here.’
Ruinart ‘Brut Rosé’ │REIMS │RUINART │55PN 5PM 40PM │ RJ 74(79)
TASTING NOTE ‘Previously a sorry case, but now in the new, round bottle even this wine has received a proper facelift. Truly fine house style with biscuits and toast along with opulent, compact fruitiness.’
A new house Champagne in the Champagne Bar by Richard Juhlin this week:
nv BOLLINGER ‘SPÉCIAL CUVÉE | 60PN 15 PM 25CH | SBnr 7418 | 429 sek | TASTINGNOTE ‘Yet again, one of my absolute favorites among nonvintage Champagnes. Since the beginning of the 1990s the wine has only been four years old when it enters the market and is vinified in steel vats. Even so, it’s fascinating to see how much 12 percent old reserve wines, vinified in oak barrels and stored in magnums, do to lift the product. The oakish, smoky, and deep Bollinger style develops after a couple of years in the bottle.’ 81(88) RJ POINTS
RJ ON BOLLINGER Joseph Bollinger was the German from Würtemberg who founded this ancient house in 1829. The French called him simply “Jacques.” The firm’s large estates in the best Pinot villages were bought by his sons Georges and Joseph, and in 1918 it was time for the next Jacques to take over the property. He became the mayor of Aÿ, but died during the German occupation at the age of forty-seven. The most colorful person in the history of the house is his widow, Lily Bollinger, who kept a watchful eye on every bunch of grapes by cycling through the vineyards regularly. Her rigorous demands for quality still run through the house to this day. Now Bollinger is run by Jérôme Philipon, who control over 144 hectares, providing 70 percent of the grape supply. The winemaker today is Gilles Descôtes. Besides the house’s exceptional vineyards, they also use very expensive vinification methods. All the vintage wines are fermented in small, aged oak barrels and are never filtered. Malolactic fermentation—which would probably take place very late in the process—is not encouraged either. The reserve wines are stored at low pressure in magnums. Bollinger make the heaviest and most full-bodied champagnes of any house, and their wines always have a smoky and hazelnut-y complexity that is very hard to beat. The vintage wines are among the very best, but the question is whether the rare and fantastic Vieilles Vignes Françaises, made with grapes from non-grafted Pinot vines, can reach even greater heights. All wines highly recomended.